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Looking to replace this old Wickes CH programmer (looks like a re- badged Landis). Can any one suggest a straight swap replacement as far as the wiring is concerned?

Thanks. I have wired Red to L and Blue to 3 (before I saw your edit) and this is working.

Just to add a bit more info. I have just attached the common probe of my multimeter to earth and then in turn connected each wire to the positive probe. The red wire returns a voltage - 244V while the others (yellow and blue) return no voltage. This tells me that the Red wire is indeed the Live...

What seemed like a good idea at the time has turned into a real problem! We have an old Honeywell room thermostat - not sure of the actual model but this is a picture: It was working ok - we are just about to decorate the room and decided it would be good to replace it with a more modern...

The new lamp also has an override facility but only has two connections. As far as I can tell, the wires in the existing override swich are Red to common, Yellow to L1 and the Blue (incorrectly specified as Brown in the original post) going to L2

I need to replace an existing outdoor PIR security light. However, the existing light has four wires going into it but the new one only has three. My problem is working out which ones to use. The old lamp has a Brown and Red going into a block and a Yellow wire going into another block plus the...

I have now checked the pump and it is not stuck - does turn when boiler is on. I have also checked the header tank - this was empty due to a stuck ball valve. I have now freed this and the tank is full again, but the boiler still does not stay on for more than about a minute.

I currently have no hot water or heating in the CH system. When the HW and CH system is turned on, the boiler (Potterton Netaheat 10-16 Mk II) ignites but only runs for about 1 minute before switching off. The pump (Grundfos Super 4 Two Speed) makes a noise and gets quite hot after a period of...