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My current cooker hood ducting consists of white PVC hose connected to the hood's 120mm adaptor by tape. It travels up through a hole in the kitchen ceiling to the loft where it travels 1.8m horizontally along the loft insulation before turning 90 degrees downward to a hole in the loft...

My current cooker hood ducting consists of white PVC hose connected to the hood's 120mm adaptor by tape. It travels up through a hole in the kitchen ceiling to the loft where it travels 1.8m horizontally along the loft insulation before turning 90 degrees downward to a hole in the loft...

Not an essential issue but I'm considering replacing the bulky cylinder thermostat tied round the hot water cylinder with a Honeywell version. The cylinder is foam insulated so the smaller dimensions of the Honeywell thermostat would leave gaps in the foam of a good few centimetres. Is there a...

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As can be seen, the end part has broken off. I can't find any silver tap valve replacements specific to the "Traditional 1928" range online (can anyone?) so would it be best to wrap the end of the broken piece with PTFE tape and jam it in to the main body?

Situated under the bath to boost bath shower mixer taps. Works perfectly fine with the taps on. Randomly switches on and off for 5 seconds(ish) , 3-4 times an hour Checked Pressure Vessel - flat - didn't hold cycle pump repressurisation so replaced it. Checked with pressure gauge on new one -...

I wish to replace two isolating valves which connect two rubber pipes (which join to a water pump situated beneath the bath). Would any compounds be required or would simply tightly securing the valves be good enough for a water tight fitting?

When I switch the box on, it doesn't stay on : the power switch illuminates briefly before going off again. Despite this, the Virgin Media engineer tried to 'remedy' this by using a different power lead, wondering if the fuse in the plug had gone - yes, really. Because I have a whole host of...

Can anyone advise on how to remove locks which have "Concealed fix" covers? Thanks

When the washing machine is in operation with the Super Economy button pressed, it grinds to a halt at the Slow Spin stage. As a result, I move the programmer to another function such as Rinse and the machine continues. Any idea as to what could be causing it? There's nothing connected to...

The gap between floor and units is 17cm. Can anyone please recommend where I can obtain plain white plinths of that height? Thanks.

I cooked something earlier today and noticed the dials were hot as I adjusted the temperature control. The whole panel felt hot and still does, 20 minutes later. This does not usually occur. Can anyone advise?

When there's a programme including Short Spin, the machine simply comes to a standstill, whereas if one involves a Long Spin, there is no trouble at all. I've taken the top off and looked at the circuit board on the programme. There appear to be no wires connected to the area which says b1,b2...

The washine machine doesn't perform the Short Spin procedure, N on the programme, doesn't work. When the machine reaches that aspect of the programme, it simply stops. The machine performs the main Spin, D, perfectly well. Can anyone please offer any advice and solutions?

The cooker hood makes a noise when on it's higher settings and, opening it up, it looks like the plastic cylinder blade thingy on the motor has become mis-shapen and hits the sides, causing the noise. I phoned New World and because it's 5 years old, they don't provide replacement parts..great...

I'm having my kitchen rewired and it appears that the electrical sockets are about 2 metres from the sink...not very handy for filling up a kettle! Is there a regulation stating that an electrical socket has to be a minimum distance from the sink?

I've recently had my place rewired, complete with a brand new Wylex Consumer Unit. The Earth Terminal block has been fixed to the wall beside the unit, and has half a dozen earth wires screwed to it. Why would the earth wires and block not be situated inside the Consumer Unit?

Can anyone tell me where I can find the element to get it replaced?

Does anyone know the correct positioning for a fcu for a Cooker Hood? I have run a spur from the kitchen light down to the outside of the chimney to which the cooker hood wiring is connected via an fcu. The cooker hood wire then runs behind the chimney which I presume ought to be completely...

On my newly acquired cooker hood, there is a power lead which emerges into a plastic box,inside which is a terminal block.The wire then emerges from the other side of the plastic box. What is the relevance of the plastic box and terminal block?