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It's a detached property we're building, and I am happy that the fire doors will be correctly installed. My question was concerned with whether we've been quoted a fair amount for the work and materials involved? We're in a pretty rural location, and good joiners are few and far between here!

Thanks for the info and I'll certainly follow up. My understanding regarding inspection and sign off would only be needed in a commercial installation rather than a residential build? I'm not worried about floors being out of level, they've been very expertly installed!

Please be gentle with me, I know this sort of question has been asked many times, but there are a few different specifics regarding my question! We're self-building a new property and have got to the stage of installing internal doors. We're going to be installing XL Joinery veneered oak...

I'm just starting putting insulation between the rafters on a new build, and have realised that the insulated plasterboard that will fit under the rafters will be unsupported where it meets the gable wall. I was thinking of applying a line of Soudal vapourseal down the end of the board, and...

I know that this one has been done to death elsewhere, but I do have a specific query about using 45mm drywall screws that I've not seen an answer to. Timber frame new build property, with my intention to use 12.5mm plasterboard on external walls and 1st floor ceiling, 15mm soundbloc on...

Thanks darrington, but you've hit on one of the inconsistencies I've come across in the self-build world! Builders will say that the top of the screed is the finished floor level, but when we had things measured up for windows and doors, they were insistent that the finished floor level was the...

I'm in the middle of a self-build project (nothing much happening at the moment!), and planning for how to fit the battens (vcl and service cavity) on the external walls ready to fit plasterboard to. I'm fitting three battens at the bottom of the wall (to give plenty of scope for skirting to...

Maybe I'm over-complicating things by trying to be "neat" with wool insulation. The attached photo shows the trusses, which are 600mm apart with a 3500mm total span. The truss beams are 75mm high, so I guess I can lay 75mm between the trusses (on 400mm cross battens, or do I need to go closer...

The plans say 0.16 W/m2/K with 300mm of rockwool roll, and 270mm would give a u-value of 0.16 according to Rockwool's online calculator. The architect plans state 300mm. To achieve 0.16 above and below, I'd need either 80mm boards between the rafters and 60mm below, or 100mm between and 50mm...

We now have a new timber frame property erected, and trying to work out how best to install loft insulation in the (cold) roof space. It's a 1.5 storey building, and the roof trusses have been constructed as "Howe trusses" (per attached example image, please ignore the measurements). There's...

The concrete floor is solid, and there are no pipes under the floor. The cold water supply comes from the other end of the building and up through the floor in the kitchen by the back door - there's no sign of any damp there. I suspect that it's just moisture coming up from underneath. Tbh...

Hi all, I'm new here, so please be kind! I'm installing a new kitchen in a Victorian terraced house. I've stripped out the old kitchen, but the floor is still showing signs of damp, despite being free of the old fittings for a few weeks. Not wet as such, but patches are darker in some places...