Search results

No, they're actually in decent condition (overboarded and skimmed), so I'd really rather not.

Still hoping for a few opinions on how much, if any, remedial work this joist needs. I'm inclined to 'scab' a bit of joist either side of the rotted area as I'll need some solid joist to fix floorboards to anyway. For the stud wall I suppose I just have to leave it on the single existing joist...

There was an immersion heater but now there's a combi boiler hanging on a frame that's sitting on several of the joists.

Currently contemplating bathroom refurbishment and have taken a look under the bath. There has been a fair bit of water leaking round the perimeter due to poor sealing, probably for some time, as you can see below! Top bit of the joists looks a bit rotten, though the bulk of it still seems...

From some more research it seems that you can go down to 150mm strips and the gap to the right is 200mm so I suppose a strip of that width would do it with noggins along the edge.

I know... but if you were going to do it with chipboard, what would you do?

I'm going to replace the chipboards on my landing as they are a complete mess after being taken up twice and a bodge repair by the previous owner. As you can see in the photo below, there's a piece of 22mm stuck in there when the rest seems to be 18mm around it (400mm centres on the joists...

Hmm, yeah, doesn't seem a lot of choice. Just not sure I want to sacrifice basin depth or material. I guess something has to give though!

Thanks - any ideas where I might find some with proper ceramic basins , for example - most of these I found before are no-name products, I'd rather get something branded if possible?

Like this (but nicer!)

I meant just have a vanity unit and have a closed-coupled toilet up to the tiled boxing as it is now (but obviously done properly). As a closed-coupled toilet is about 360mm wide.

Bath to wall is 1215 mm (i.e. the boxing is 220 mm wide). I might cut an exploratory hole in the boxing to see how much space I have inside around the soil stack. I suppose another option is to just have a vanity plus the boxing with a closed-coupled WC backing onto it. Obviously moving the...

That's what I presumed, but I can't see a stack at the back of their property. In any case: I've got 995 mm between bath and the boxing of the soil stack...

I want/have to update our bathroom (since moving in we've discovered the floor is wrecked due to water and bodged installations). Due to budget I want to do most of it myself. Most of it I'm fairly clear about after doing some research but I'm a bit stumped about how to put the sink and...

Thanks for the quick reply, that makes sense.

I'm not yet onto doing our kitchen, however I will have the floors in the bathroom above the kitchen up for replacement before then, and so I want to take the opportunity to get some ducting put there while I can for the eventual cooker hood. I had in mind to take the hood outlet up, 90 turn...

Would you say the same for the bathroom or would it be worth going for ply there? I'm thinking to put a floating luxury vinyl tile in there, like Quickstep Livyn.

Thanks chappers. Is ply harder to lay than chipboard then? I was going to buy the T+G stuff (hence the cost). And I thought of using it for better water resistance and stability (our washing machine is trampolining at the moment). I was going to reinforce the joists under the units/washing...

Change to thermal element (approved document L1B)

Not particularly concerned, it's a mid-terrace and from what I've read these don't benefit hugely as they have a small perimeter obviously. I'm already baulking at the price difference of ply v chipboard so not really up for the cost of kingspan or celotex. Given the tight budget I might just...