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Yes sounds like swapping the power supply for a new one is the answer, doesn't have to be the same brand any constant voltage driver rated at 12v 30w will do. May be worth checking how much power the led strip is pulling if you know its rating as the driver should be oversized by at least 20%...

I am not sure what the model numbers signify but what I do know is czjutai power supplies with an M in a circle do remember their last setting. A T in a circle signifies its got an inbuilt timer usually for 6/8hours on and 16/18 hours off but it can be disabled. For the czjutai brand at least...

You need a 32v power supply not 36v, having said that I can't think why using an overrated power supply would knacker it, if anything it would knacker the leds. There is no harm in getting one rated for a higher wattage though so a 32v 15w rated one might be the best bet if you've had 3 12w ones...

That is a pretty poor failure rate, I've got probably close to 100 of the things and over the last couple of years can only recall maybe 4 failures - the light sets usually fail/rust before the power supply fails. I have quite a few different brands but have noticed the ones supplied with more...

Yes I've noticed the same thing I do a fairly big christmas light display every year and they do get quite warm, I keep as many as I can outside in big weatherproof boxes which hopefully helps with heat dissipation thanks to the cold weather and also I just like to minimise the number of cheaply...

The only thing that will work is the first amazon link https://www.amazon.co.uk/Christmas-Concepts%C2%AE-Electronic-Transformer-Function/dp/B0DH8LHKGG Christmas lights wirh multifunction flashing modes are wired with every other led in the same polarity ie. 1st led will be wired with 'correct'...

They're 11 inch squares from what i can tell of whats left, the thing that made me doubt they were tiles was there doesn't appear to be any sort of adhesive underneath. In all honesty it doesn't matter that much if it is or isn't asbestos i won't be disturbing them I'll just be overboarding the...

Actually my first thought... but definitely seems to have straight edges you can just about make out in the pic so I doubt it

Hi, Taken up some laminate flooring and the underlay and underneath it theres patches of some thin white cement board type material, just wondering what this could be?

Luckily you'd not be able to create a short circuit with that intermediate light switch wiring as it's all lines/switch lines (aside from the cpc obviously) you'd just get switches and lights not working as they should, mind you I'm not advocating for a trial and error approach!

Its an intermediate switch you need, most of them have a standard size rocker for whatever reason yours is extra wide, and that loose wire thats hanging out will need connected into the new switch, you can in your pic it looks like its fallen out of one of those top terminals

Well I have got a nail gun which would be fine if I was going down that route but I'd be worried it wouldn't give a great fixing and would probably end up squeaking, the fixings would only be going into around 20mm of floorboard/chipboard

Hi all, After your thoughts really on these things, I do a fair bit of flooring work and will be doing considerably more next year, which will involve a lot of overboarding with ~9-12mm ply, its a job I hate tbh knackers my back and knees and takes ages putting all the screws in, so I'm...

They're part of the cable grip assembly you do need to put them in for t&e so it's gripped properly This is how it should look, in the second pic you can see the gap with the cover on is about right to grip a bit of t&e, without those extra bits in place it won't grip properly

Possibly old substandard red and black t&e where the red insulation has degraded and turned brown, are you able to IR test it?

Yes i can imagine... mine is in zone 2 (which is ok as they are ip45 rated), so steam from a shower sets it off very quicky

I've found the envirovent ones work very well when set to the most 'sensitive' setting

Cheers guys I'll try squishing a standard z bar I reckon and see how that looks, just had no idea what methods people normally use or what products there are and google wasn't really that helpful!

Hi all, What is the correct threshold strip to join carpet to click LVT which is only 4/5mm thick please? As you can see a standard Z bar strip does not work it leaves a rather big gap on the LVT side. Cheers!

Thank you I'll give them a call see if they supply caps!