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I wouldn't worry about it too much as long as they are LED, which they almost certainly will be, I doubt the tenants would want to pay the bill for leaving older incandescent sets running all the time! Even the dodgy LED sets online aren't so much a fire hazard rather an electric shock hazard...

For an exact replacement, if you buy a set of 100 chaser lights (any colour) from B&M they will have the exact same power supply. However, going off your reddit post, if the new 3.5V power supply you tried didn't work at all, I'd suggest the fault lies within the lights themselves. With that...

That is very clearly a class 1 fitting meaning it does require an earth, however no provision has been made so I wouldn't be confident that the light has been made to the appropriate standards and I would not install it personally. Where did you buy it?

That single insulated red wire hanging out of the ceiling is a concern, can you pull it out further and find out where it goes?

One of the well known energy companies recently called my dad about fitting a smart meter and in the discussion the company told him they couldn't remotely disconnect the supply! As far as I am aware, they CAN, so is that a blatant lie? Either way he turned it down, he is of the opinion (as am...

Imo if the property is getting a full refurb/is a new build it's silly to use wireless switches if it's possible to chase walls. However they are great for getting out of an awkward situation if chasing isn't possible and for retrofit work, I've used loads of quinetic gear, never had a problem...

A pic of the whole light fitting would be very helpful it is hard to make out what's what from those pictures. From what we can see though, the tape joints are not good.

I've used these in my kitchen with the surface mount ring: https://www.downlights.co.uk/cabinet-12v-led-downlight.html#product-info-description-wrapper LED drivers are also required, mine are on top of the cabinets. Not the cheapest going but they are high lumen (for 'puck' lights) and have...

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I am simply saying what I would personally do given a similar situation, it is up to the OP to decide what they want to do. They are not necessarily 'wrong' since the equipment to do what they suggest is commonly available and doesn't go against any regs. However I personally would think it is...

I am thinking about it in electrical terms, ignoring the instructions for now. It is just conceivable the 3A fuse on the permanent Line supply (i.e. what the motor runs off) might provide protection to the motor. The switch Line is just a signal wire, it does nothing else.

Indeed, however if that were the rationale, it seems to me more sensible to simply require a 6A mcb rather than a 3A fuse, which I agree can be a faff at times. We have a similar issue with ovens, they often want a 16A fuse/MCB, this isn't a standard oven/hob circuit in the UK. The general...

I will agree that electrically, a 3A fuse is likely to be of no use. But the regs do say “The installation of electrical equipment shall take into account manufacturers’ instructions”. So quite simply where practical and reasonable, I will follow them, if there is no reason not to. Tin hat on...

Why? Would you also not follow the instructions for, say, a smart light switch, which might be required to have 6A fuse protection, and just stick it on a 32A circuit? Why not follow the instructions when they are perfectly sensible, and not hard to achieve. Granted there are examples of...

My thoughts also, which is why I was surprised to see the instructions want the SL fused at 3A too!

Agreed it probably wouldn't hold up if you argued with them but generally for the cost and difficulty of getting a 3A fuse in for a fan I'll just do it. Funnily enough I had an inline fan fail within a year, the problem was a piece of copper on the motor windings had broken, can only assume it...

Can you access the loop in wiring to the bathroom? Looks like to truly comply with instructions the only options would be to install a 3A FCU at this point so all the bathroom wiring is fused down to 3A, or indeed replace the circuit breaker. Both these options seem overcomplicated, the...

I'm not understanding why the light would need fusing down, surely the fan has no relation to the light fitting? EDIT: I missed a detail on the diagram, the manufacturer essentially wants the Line AND switched Line to the fan to be protected by a 3A fuse, that's not something I've seen in any...

If the manufacturer says there should be a 3A fuse it is best to put one in, if you try and claim on the warranty and haven't followed their instructions they will probably refuse. The way to do it is very straightforward, just replace the fan isolator with a fused fan isolator like this...

Based on the picture it appears to be designed as a double insulated fitting. I would question that looking at the clearly non double insulated L&N wires attached to the transformer. Did the light come from a reputable source?