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Thanks! That’s great.

Thanks Paul I am planning to mark out where my posts need to go in the ground and then set in the ground and level each of them before attaching the joists. Out of interest did you do the same or build your frame then measure where your posts need to go and install? thanks again

That’s great Paul thank you. Your workshop looks really smart - thanks for sharing. Yes, that steel is Baker’s! There seems to be so many systems around that it’s a bit confusing. I do like the dekpost that you have used - I’m just trying to find a local supplier.

Hi Paul I’m on with finishing my plans for a shed/workshop so was interested to see the dekposts you’ve used. I’d contacted a garden room builder and got details of the 75mm x 8mm x 500mm metal right angled post they use as in the photo but these dekposts look sturdier so will see if I can get...

if your deck is supposed to be square then yes, the diagonals not being equal is a problem! If you’ve made the base to match the existing fences / edging then that must be out of true?

That’s much cheaper ! Worth trying and see how you get on. Make sure you apply liberally to ensure good coverage and also with the wind to your back to avoid it landing on you !!!

I’ve used Resiblock on our driveway (Marshall’s Tegula) albeit quite a few years ago. I went for the satin/Matt option and I was suprised just how much I needed and how expensive it was as a result. (I think I needed something like 25 litres and would say I could have used more as the blocks...

When we built ours it was as you say, stud work then plasterboard/backer board then seal onto this and tiles to finish.

I’m not sure if I remove the existing (I think it won’t be reusable) that the above new one will fit?

I don’t think that’s the same. I’ve just popped out and taken some quick photos of mine

hi I have replaced the broken lock on our gas meter box which is a simple quarter turn latch type as the lock using one like the attached photo. Our electric meter box lock is also broken but this is a sprung lock so couldn’t use the same item. I can’t find a sprung meter box latch on line...

This youtube is a decent watch IMO

Well, that is stunning. Well done - all your hard work has definitely paid off.

It should fall and the sides should have raised edges to prevent the rain water spilling over the sides. Ours falls to the front edge (i think it is about a 5 degree slope to accommodate the velux flat roof lights) into the guttering and each side is raised as above. No pooling of water.

That’s a hybrid roof and will need ventilation as the insulation below the roof structure is greater than that above. 25mm is nothing really. Most should spec 100-150 these days.

We have a 70mm screed and have been advised 1mm per day so the tiler is booked in for then. The amount of moisture coming out of a seemingly dry floor is untrue but supports the above drying time I guess. Just over the hump of heavily condensed windows and leaving doors open for circulation...

We have a small LED strip that is hidden under the basin shelf and comes on via a PIR sensor. Works really well and prevents the bright lights in the night situation!

Definitely wet. Our extension is 32m2 and it is a wet system going in on two circuits. Floor will have 150mm of insulation on top of beam/block and then the piping and screed on top of that.

No. I took legal advice and didn’t fancy my chances.

As above, do not ignore. I had one a year or two ago and ignored until they passed the issue to their debt recovery service and the £££ kept going up. I stumped up the original fee despite the latest 8ncrements and they accepted this. They can and do take people to court these days and...