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Yes one block for each pair of wires! I’d be a bit worried if they were all in the one connection! I worded it wrong!

Just to confirm, I’ve built a vanity unit from scratch which has a recess in the front of it. The back panel to this recess I’ve made removable with a few screws and there’s plenty of room in there to mount the socket for the leds. Definitely not possible to accidentally access this socket, but...

Good news! Thanks for ur help

Yeah two blues and two earths in a connector bloc

Yes there are neutrals at the switch. Well, blue wires which I assume are neutral. It’s a double switch, light and extractor

I know this should never be done in case someone plugs in something that would overload the circuit but here’s my situation. I have two sets of led strip lights to run around the base of my bathroom which I was planning to run from the light switch. I have used these strips before and taken the...

Just wondering if you can tile onto bare wood? I have built a vanity unit for my counter top basin, timber frame and plasterboard which will be fully tiled. I have made a recess in the front of the unit roughly the same width as the sink for storage. The unit is entirely plasterboarded with the...

Probably in the case of this picture there will be an internal skin of brick or block under where they’ve built the timber gable panel so it would be fine to have the load anywhere along the footplate of the timber panel but I’m wondering how it would work when the entire inner wall is timber...

That makes more sense to me. Would the timber footplate be sufficient to cope with this load under the two sets of doubled up studs. What I mean is, as the weight of the beam is now being applied down through the doubled up studs to the footplate and thus to the timber frame on first floor...

Yeah I noticed the rafters too, not sure what’s going on there. With regards to the ridge beam, you can see at the bottom right of the pic (just above the guys head) that there is another stud (probably doubled up) so this I would imagine will have some sort of top plate between the two doubled...

Hi again, after endless searching I have managed to find a pic that shows my exact situation, with steels resting on the timber frame. Although the way it’s been done in the pic doesn’t look sufficient to me! If u zoom in it looks as though a piece of timber has been fixed to the stud work with...

I have asked one of the owners if there was any disruption to the downstairs walls and she said she wasn't 100% sure but she didn't think so. I never asked to see the drawings though, that's a good shout

Thanks freddymercurystwin, I was just trying to get an idea of how it would have to be done before getting an engineer involved. I wouldn't like to get one out only to find it wouldn't be worthwhile doing. I just thought someone may have done or had experience in doing this style of house. I...

Sorry for the confusion, when i say timber kit I mean the method used by most housebuilders these days. All the site managers I deal with refer to them as timber kit although this phrase may cover other systems I suppose. To clarify, opening up the wall from the inside would be in this order...

Definitely not sips. Standard timber frame construction

King studs!?

I do mean add load bearing studs under where the steels would be, my terminology may be wrong here!!! I thought that was a 'cripple' stud, to stop it 'crippling'? Every days a school day!

The osb is only on one side of the timber kit, the cavity side. When the internal plasterboard is removed you are looking at the studs with the osb on the back side. Adding studs here is adding studs within the timber kit panel, why would this not be a cripple stud?

Why would I have to cut the osb? Would I not just be adding studs of the same size/width?