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Think I've managed to fix this. After taking the burner off, the bolt holding the electrodes down was loose and they were moving around. Tightened with the correct gap set and it's not had any issues for a week.

Do you mean the control box? If so I think not - it’s a Satronic DKO 970

Have an HRM Wallstar 20/25 (2003 I think) oil boiler. Seems to be locking out every day at the moment, only notice when the hot waters gone cold. Boiler was serviced last month. I had a plumber friend look at it who suggested solenoid coil and then the ignition transformer, but replaced both...

In the process of fitting ethernet around my house, and need to get it from the loft to an external wall on the ground floor, and to the garage as well. The easiest option looks to be down an exterior wall (red line). I would like to run 6x cables so clipping them all to the wall would look...

So embarrassingly it looks like I have no oil. The sight was full and there was some when bleeding it, but when I put some fishing rods in only the very tip was wet. And for a tank that's meant to be 80% full, the level looked very very low.

What do you mean by tank vent, please?

Noticed I have no hot water and the boiler wasn't firing up, lockout light was on, pressed the button and it came on for a bit before going off again. Had a closer look and noticed the clear final bit of the oil supply line was empty. Tank claims to be half full (metal and can't see inside) so...

I've bought a house with a 20 year old conservatory. Unfortunately, water is coming through the roof in the area marked in red. I think that one specific pane's seal has failed, but I don't really understand how the glass is secured to get to it. I've taken a double glazing pane out before...

Thanks for the help everyone - once I got my head around y-plan it makes sense. I wanted a single unit that controlled everything, and the Honeywell programmer I bought was the wrong tool for the job. I struggled to find a single wireless thermostat / programmer unit that would do y-plan - it...

3 port valve There is documentation, reams of it, but most of it is useless and the wiring diagrams I have I'm not confident represent what's actually installed (...or are even for this house...). I think "H/W Off" makes sense for the extra cable, I'll test it with a multimeter to...

I've moved into a house which seems to have a very complicated heating setup, which I'd like to replace with a regular 7 day programmer / thermostat (specifically a Honeywell T3R). The house has a boiler, hot water cylinder (with thermostat), pump on the hot water cylinder and a cold water tank...

Yes. I don't think it was installed square so some of it sits in the gutter - in fact around the corner water actually flowed over the side of the gutter because of it. I'm not 100% sure I understand, but if you think it's more than one sheet, it looks to be one sheet just with some ruffles in...

My house came with a recently built (~7 years) extension. I've had a couple of leaks from the roof - earlier in the year I pulled a couple of tiles off, found a hole in the felt, patched it and all good. Unfortunately, it's come back (from somewhere else). Not "leave a bucket on the floor"...

I wouldn't imagine it does much for noise, certainly not compared to products designed for that purpose. It's much more likely as you say for hanging cupboards etc off to ensure you can get a fixing anywhere.

Maybe it's the picture but that waste run looks like it goes uphill...?

Whats the best way of laying tiles on floorboards without affecting the finished floor level I already have? I.E. is there an alternative to just relaying them direct on the boards. Had a think and replacing the whole lot is a bit more than I want to do right now and wondering if replacing some...

My suggestion would be to use proper flooring screws.

It's not that bad as long as you can clear the room, put down something on the floor and have lots of ventilation to get the dust out ASAP. Personally I'd take it all down - if your already getting plasterboard and getting a plasterer in - if you've got easy access to the stud wall you can...

Plastic ones are typically for surface mounting, whereas metal ones go into the wall. It's unlikely you'll be able to swap the back box without some degree of making good afterwards.