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Thank you for your help @Madrab, really appreciate that.

The model is : vu306/6-5 ovz (h-gb) its a 430. 100% no feed and expansion cistern, cold main is connected directly via filling loop. so definitely not an open vent "setup" but I guess the question is can the boiler still be used as a sealed system and does it need a pump on the hot water side.

It's still to be commissioned but work is complete, I'm hoping I'm totally wrong tbh and didn't want to be a awkward with him if he hasn't done anything wrong but i cant see how the hot water is going to flow to the cylinder coil...

There is also no pump installed, my understanding is an open vent doesn't have a built in pump?

I've just had a boiler and unvented cylinder installed, a completely fresh install with no pre-existing pipe work other than the cold main. We will be running underfloor heating throughout the whole house soon, for now there is a flow and return in place coming from the boiler to the manifold...

at the moment the cost comparison based on what i have been able to get quoted is 70mm PIR £26.65, 12.5 PB £6 = £33 Insulated PB 82.5 = £60 Difference is about 1k + vat

Hi, I am just starting the internal fit out of my extension which I have built myself so far. The walls are dense concrete block and require 70mm celotex and then plasterboard. There will be no battens. (architect spec) I would prefer to use separate insulation and PB due to significant cost...

Thanks gonch69, No soffits thankfully. Thanks woody, that’s my main concern, I need to double check but I think I’ve will have just over 100mm on the end when trimmed close to block. As long as BC doesn’t have an issue I should be able to work around

I am Just starting on the roof and cut a test rafter. The eaves will be flush so rafters cut to wall then fascia and gutter but I just realised that as I have built both skins to same height I have an issue with the end of the rafter and need to trim it to sit above outer skin. Will the...

I've documented every penny spent so once the roof is on I will post a summary of costs so far.

Cement mixer is B and Q but I picked it up on gumtree for £150, it had only been used to build a garage and was a lot cleaner than it is now :) https://www.diy.com/departments/build-buddy-370w-230v-cement-mixer-134l-bb134-a/405789_BQ.prd I think the laser should suit everything I need it for...

I am halfway up the second floor and should take another 4 days of block laying. Only problem is that could be weeks with the weather and limited time. I almost gave up a week ago and had a bricky round to quote to finish, the weather had been horrendous and the nights are getting shorter. I...

Weather has been bad but I’ve made some progress. Floor joists and some temporary OSB laid so I can store materials and work from first floor.

@tony1851 Span is 5130mm, I was referring to the height of wall on top sorry

I've just laid my first two courses on the inner beam and then thought it wasn't right, looks like the drawings show blocks to edge on outer skin but centre on inner skin :( It's holding 2.5m of cavity wall inner skin, first floor joists and vaulted ceiling/roof. I guess I'm going to either...

I have a 146mm inner beam and a 133mm outer beam supporting a new cavity wall to be built on top Can I set these so that they are 300mm edge to edge and sit the blocks flush with the front edge or do the blocks need to be centred on each beam? The beams are not going to be bolted together.

@mrrusty I am planning on using an over floor system from wundafloor or nuheat, even more expensive but means I can do all the old house and upstairs, check back in a few months to see if we managed to scrape the money together!

Thanks for the comments @mrrusty Regarding insulation, to meet Scottish regs i am having 50mm in the cavity and 60mm on the inside of the extension. For the existing house unfortunately its 9" solid walls which I only found out when i went to install the first beam. I've read a lot of varying...

and the next steel (got eight beams in total to go in) and another in for the joists and this is where we are at now. first floor joists going in next. So far I've not had a single bit of help

time for an update I guess. Block laying is slow if the mortar isn't mixed perfect. I've finally got it and it makes a huge difference. had to set up a little sump for the existing shower/sink and gutter drain. and slowly started building up the walls got the laser on it, i'm...