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I'm trying to think about what to do with a small section of a flat roof over sliding front door. During rain it pours relatively heavily over anyone entering the house and I would like to have a neat (as its front of the house) guttering solution. The problem is that there is no wall between...

Thank you both. Can I use different paste for sizing than I'm going to use on wallpaper? I have leftover from lining paper (high performance solvite ready mix) that I can dilute. Then I'm going to use regular solvite (also ready mix)...

Anyone? I'm leaning towards option 4 as I think I'm not going to be quick enough to put the next strip up before lining paper dries out on the seam (or need to stop to resume a few hours later)...

I'm doing wallpaper project for the first time - single wall, vynil, paste the wall. I've prepared the wall with lining paper (grade 2000 as it is in a bad condition) and now wonder what's the best and simplest way of putting the paper over it. The options I read about: - just paste lining...

For the life of me I can't figure out why my intergas doesn't show clock on the left hand side of the panel. Manuals and videos on youtube show its working, but not on mine... The only thing i can think of is that I have both CH and DHW clock programs disabled, so it operates from OT wired in...

OK, that sort of rules out that plan. If I get a ready made wooden base - what can I use to level it on the concrete slabs? Would something like jouplast or shedmate work?

I thought about the membrane, but will the floor not be affected by the moisture accumulating on top of the membrane? Its almost guaranteed to trap some water in the area where floor would be pressing on it...

I have a shed base that looks like it was custom made for 8x6 feet shed from treated wood (2inch depth, 7 inch width around perimeter and half way through, with lead flushing on the wooden corners). Underneath are very uneven concrete slabs, so differently sized wooden legs are in used to make...

I recon OP is not asking this question to confirm what he has done many times before, so why disturb a sealed system if there is a chance something can go wrong...

Why don't you start with something simple like dosing unblocker gel, leave overnight and flush with hot water in the morning?

I just wonder - how does this design allow top level air out via that bleed valve that resides at the bottom of the pipe?

To get some help you probably need to post some pictures from the backplate of your current relay. They are not the same as for Wiser, so you would have to rewire it.

End result (one if them). Of course I did use washers and tape, but all good in the end. The biggest challenge was to rotate it in the right position. I wish they did such tees with a nut, so that it could be turned without moving the tee...

So a bit of a result - with d.0 setting of 14 the pump indeed doesn't rump up and is noticeably more quiet. I also moved one of the rads to regular TRV to help flow as well as dosed Fernox F2 just in case. P.S. heating now only reaches about 60 degrees from what I can see (out of 70 set), so...

Yes, that's why I'm not touching the pump settings. I only wonder if reducing heat output will help in this situation.

OK, so I read up on that. My boiler (vaillant 831) doesn't allow speed adjustment, but it has a two speed pump, which automatically adjusts based on heat output (d.0 which is set at 18 atm). Supposedly if that value is 14 or below - only slower speed will be used. The reason all this noise...

O ye, of little faith? :rolleyes:

Plumbing is indeed poor. When we moved into the house a few years ago I didn't really have experience with these things, so when full cosmetic redecoration was going on, the plumbing and heating was not touched. Now that I have done and read about fair bit of dyi I'm starting to rectify things...

Found one on ebay (in case anyone else is looking for it): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Offset-Equal-Tees-1-8-Bsp-up-to-1-2-Bsp-1x-Male-inlet-2-x-Female-ports/111111982104

I was hoping to avoid multiple connections, but if that is the only way... I need to connect a 15mm water hammer arrester to sink tap supply which already have isolation valve installed (male end, hence needs for 2 females on the tee, one for arrester, one for isolation valve)