Search results

No it gets to the end of the 140 and slips quite easily … annoying

I picked up an open box Grohe Concetto tap, it moves even when tight, the brace underneath is plastic and that was moving, a few dots of adhesive and it’s fine, it does not slip. On top it’s still moving, it sits on the sink with a rubber o ring… is there anyway to stop this ...

That was no good for me, I needed the top of the trap to go direct to poly pipe solvent weld, so gone one of these …. Plumbing shop guy called it an Iron or something

Ok been down the local proper plumbing supplies, the guy has come up with this that I can solvent too! Looks good

It’s the part with the tick next to it

No on the other picture the bottom right is the elbow. The threaded end connects to the waste,

I have a blanco sink I picked up, it already has a double waste kit, but I can get a p trap to fit it, normally the top of the p trap connects directly to the strainer on sink. This has an elbow (bottom right of image). I can remove the elbow and use a thread to solvent stub, but it still...

This is a really old post I have the exact same problem, a normal trap just connects to under sink bowl. The Infino connects to the right angle fixing in the bottom right of the above picture (I just got a Mcapine it’s no good.

I was just not sure of the order.

Yes glued down, this was from an Ardex support… so probably pointing me to the most expensive? So P82 then sand bind, then k39 or 40? It says use primer before the k39 /40 https://ardex.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/technical-datasheet-k-39.pdf What is the exact order / products would...

Also is k15 a lot better than k11? I see it can be thicker…

Is that ok to do that ? ….I respect your replies as I’ve seen your posts.. Thank you ..

Ok so it’s older property with no DPM, flooring is oak 90mm wide Elka, parts of the floor, need a little repair before the DPM 1C, so thinking K301.. this is the choice I’ve come to, scenario 1, primer the repaired areas with Ardex P51, Apply K301 to areas that need attention, make sure...

Ok they are Fabrication/engineering not house stuff. Yes it’s definitely a timber beam. I got the span wrong it’s around 3900 between pillar edges. Regards

They are all like that, ok will do, for now I have crawled into the eves again, it looks like there is a large pice of wood near the end of the rafter, (wall plate?) cut into the party and gable wall, so that will be taking all the weight, originally that would have been shared by structural...

Looks like I’ll have to take the cladding off and look. Im sure when I crawled in the loft right to the eves, I could not see any frame/beam going across. (Hence the old windows were structural) thank you for your time answering.

That’s what I was planning to do (leave it ) the price just threw me (£18.99) thanks

This is two separate windows. One is about 1500 and the other about 2350 …. There is a small single block dividing them. There is a dip in the inside ceiling …. But perfect where the cross wall is.

these had all solid wood frames, now all upvc in the whole road, they are all going the same. I think the solid frames had a row of bricks on them. Windows are taking weight and bowing on all. There is nothing above the windows there is no screws, they are not fixed at the top, it’s air above...

No it looks strong up there is late 50’s I think. Yes it’s single skin. I’ve been told single skin can be load bearing? many say single skin can and it’s almost my situation https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/wall-not-load-bearing-because-it-is-single-skin-brick.491232/ No it has purlins and...