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I like this. I’ll go with this. Many thanks for your help much appreciated

Thanks for the response. It’s a full block and a 120mm cut piece. The area to brick is 580mm wide hence the full block and 120mm piece with 2 x 10mm joints (not sure if there is a more technical term). Based on the above is there a more efficient way still now? I like the idea of a return but...

Indeed I had a rethink and went for a larger window to bring more light in. It’s a much better choice

Hi All, I am not a bricklayer but trying to learn. I am possibly overthinking this but let’s see. Please see picture attached. I am trying to figure out the cuts for blocks I am laying. This will be the inside leaf of a cavity wall with a door installed to the right. The 1st course I think...

Having thought about it long enough I have decided to go with this option as it looks like the easiest option for me and I know I’ll be sacrificing natural light into the room. For the timber size would treated 2 by 4 be enough or should I be going for something more substantial in size?

Yes indeed there will be about 1 brick and a half’s length (my quick maths is probably wrong) I did think about that also letting in as much light as possible but keep getting different views from others. Still a little more time to think it through and change my mind

No the new window won't be full width, likely going to be 1190mm wide and new door frame will be 910mm wide. Both will span the current garage door gap of 2300mm. I was planning on using a cavity lintel (top hat) to span the entire length

This is a very good option actually. I hadn’t thought of something like this

Better photos attached

The lintel is just to hold up 2 courses of bricks as the new door and window will not be going as high as where the existing window is. I plan to remove the existing window completely and have that area filled with bricks instead so that the new door and window meets the new brick Hopefully...

It is a double skin wall (if that's the right term) so the outer walls have a cavity. Attached are photos of the outside but not the best quality (ignore the highlighted blue circle) so ill have to take some when I get there later today There is nothing above the outside wall. The concrete...

Hi All, Quick question please just want to make sure there isn't an issue with this or maybe there is a much simpler solution than putting a steel lintel under the current concrete lintel Garage conversation so removing the garage door and replacing with a back door and window. Currently above...

any help out there please?

ok so I dug a small hole to see how far the foundations went. I dug about 500mm and there was still a foundation present. Building control confirmed this was ok as it was a party wall. No idea what this means. Does anyone know? If not ill ask them for clarification when he comes on site in 2...

I think it's roughly 1970s/1980s so possibly could be no foundations. Looks like will have to dig to know for sure

ok thanks so in a nut shell until the ground is dug there is no way of knowing if foundation is present or not. If there is no foundation present, how deep will the foundation need to be?

Hi, Just wanting to get an idea of what is required foundation wise. I am not a builder but have a builder coming to speak about the work and I'd like to have a general idea. I have an internal garage which I plan to install a door (910mm wide) and windows (1350mm wide). Garage span is about...

noted! thanks

Hi, I want to put up a stud wall on the 1st floor. Do I have to screw the bottom or top stud plate into the joist below/above or can I just attach to the bottom stud into floor board and the top stud into the ceiling plaster? The joist run at right angle to the stud. Thanks Dee