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There, that's pretty solid, stuck onto the battery with a double sided sticky pad. I bought a battery earth strap, I had cut off the terminal of one of the old batteries I had, drilled a hole in the bottom and put a screw and washer into it, so I could attach it to the flat end of the earth...

I have fitted a proper battery cable extension lead, which fits onto the bolt on the end of the existing negative battery cable clamp, and then fitted heat shrink tubing around it, so there is now no way it can short, the heat shrink is at least 1mm thick and really solid, the only way to remove...

I will get something much thicker to put around the kill switch and the contacts, maybe the toe end of an old shoe, and duct tape it around, so it can't possibly make contact with the car body.

I've finally fitted a kill switch. It was a bit difficult because the negative battery terminal lead from the car is only just long enough to reach the negative post of the battery, and couldn't reach the negative post of the kill switch, until I put the whole lot down the back of the battery...

ps the 0.3A occurs only after I first put the multimeter probes on the battery negative post and cable clamp, so it's when the car first gets battery power.

I will have to attach my multimeter to the battery post and battery clamp with some clamps, so that I can leave them connected for several hours, and periodically check the multimeter readings. It goes down to 2mA, so it should be able to show what's happening. It may be that now that I've fixed...

Hi Old Salt, thanks for the video, I looked at the metal bar in the middle of the boot frame, but there are definitely no sensors there. But I reconnected the battery, and pushed the 'claw' thing all the way in, as shown in the video I posted above - and the 'boot open' light turned off. I...

This might be worth trying: I didn't know that the latch was supposed to go that far up, I pushed mine with a screwdriver to the first position, thinking it was as far as it should go, and the dashboard light stayed on. Tomorrow I will try pushing it all the way up and see if the light goes...

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=70&t=1816822 "The boot latch has a microswitch inside it. Over time the microswitch starts to fail. Failure is hastened as the boot struts wear because the boot starts to shut too heavily." This is what I think must be happening in my...

So let's say that I have unlocked the car with the keyfob, then I pull the boot handle - this somehow makes the reed switch break or make contact. This signal is sent to the car. Does it then think the boot is open? So if I lift the boot door up, and then pull the boot handle again, does it then...

Yes, but what does it actually do when it makes the circuit? What happens in the car electronics? How can it tell the car that the boot is open, and thus cause the light on the dashboard to come on?

Yes, I think that's what's going on, Harry. I still can't work out what the boot switch actually does - this sort of switch: It fits behind the boot handle, so it senses when the handle is pulled open - but what does it do then? On my Picanto, when you pull the boot handle, there is a lever...

I have just tried to find the boot switch which tells the car the boot is open, but for the life of me, I can't find it. I have removed the plastic cover inside the boot lid, and I can see the inside part of the boot handle, but I can't work out where the switch is. All the videos I can find...

I've just discovered that when the 10A 'R/LP' fuse is removed (as shown in the photos in my post on page 3 of this thread), the keyfob doesn't work. So I've put the fuse back in, the keyfob works fine, but the boot warning light on the dashboard is on all the time now. I have squirted WD40 into...

I've checked the battery voltage, while the engine was running, with a better quality multimeter, it says 14.48V, no fluctuations. I have thrown out the other multimeter, and I'm going to buy an even better quality one, that I know I can rely on (i.e. not some no name brand from Ebay, but from...

Hi Jurassic park, I will try another multimeter to see if I still get 17.8V, I have four of them.

I forgot to say that the voltage across the battery when the engine was running was 17.8V.

Thanks for the advice, Burnerman! It turns out that the kill switch won't fit my battery anyway - the battery posts are too small for the kill switch clamp to go on, and the post that comes with the kill switch is too large for my car's battery cable connector thing. So I didn't use it. But what...

Thanks for your reply, Harry, I will test the voltage across the battery when the engine is running tomorrow, when my kill switch is going to arrive (obviously before fitting the kill switch, in case that causes the reading to be incorrect for some reason.)

As I've said several times now... by putting the multimeter across the negative battery terminal, and the negative battery terminal clamp - as shown in the video I posted in the original post!