Marantec garage door remote fault - LED won't stay on

[SenileGit]

I have an electric garage door which uses a Marantec 302 868Mhz remote control, but the remote controls (I have two) have both stopped working, and both have the same problem - when I press either button on the remotes, the LED flashes for a fraction of a second, and goes off. Previously, when the remotes were working, when I held the button down the LED would stay on for as long as the button was held down, and the door opening mechanism would work properly. Now the door doesn't open at all. (I can still open it manually, but it won't shut properly when I do it manually, it seems to need the motor mechanism to push it past the final point so that it's properly shut.)
Has anybody else had this problem? Both of the circuit boards on the remotes are clean and appear to have no cold solder joints (although they are all very tiny components so I can't really tell). They were both working fine six months ago, but I don't normally open the door very often (the garage is only used for storing junk), then a month ago neither remote would work properly.

 

[footprints]

Have you checked to see if it has a battery on the door obstruction sensor, mine although not your sort has a sensor bar on the bottom of the door when the battery runs down it fails to close.

 

[SenileGit]

Mine doesn't appear to have a sensor bar on the bottom of the door, and I don't think it's anything to do with any of the mechanism in the garage itself, because the LED used to stay on for as long as I held the button down, even when I was nowhere near the garage, i.e. in my house. Or does the remote get a signal back from the garage and only then keep the LED on for as long as you hold the button down?

 

[footprints]

I assume you have tried new batteries?
Many new batteries come with a sticker that needs pealing off (it has a bad taste I understand to stop kids swallowing them) my Mrs almost got caught putting one in without pealing it recently.

 

[SenileGit]

Yes, I checked the batteries with a multimeter, and tried new ones too, definitely 3V coming out of them. CR2032s don't normally come with a sticker, I hadn't heard of that before, to stop children from eating them. Mine are all in blister packs.

 

[SenileGit]

I have bought two new remote controls from Ebay, designed to replace the Marantec D302 868MHz ones, but I've tried the programming procedure on page 17 of this manual (my garage door opener is a Marantec Comfort 220.2) https://www.marantec.com/files/eba_sap/F/83988.pdf

but light no.7 doesn't change the speed it flashes at when I hold down the button on the new remote control, and the remote control doesn't work.

I've asked several companies that sell Marantec remote controls if they have heard of a remote control on which the LED only flashes for a split second when you hold down the button, none of them had heard of this problem, and I've got two remote controls that do it - very odd.

 

[jj4091]

I can't get your link to open so not sure what type of door you have but presuming up and over.
when you say "(I can still open it manually, but it won't shut properly when I do it manually, it seems to need the motor mechanism to push it past the final point so that it's properly shut.)", it should not really be like that as you should be able to open manually as easily as automatically with any garage door so I think I would concentrate on rectifying that problem first as the controller may be sensing mechanical resitance and putting it into an error state so that it cannot be used automatically thereby preventing the risk of injury or damage.

 

[SenileGit]

Hi, I don't think the controller is in an error state, because I can open and close the door using the controller by pressing its plus and minus buttons. I think it's the way that the door is fitted that prevents me from manually closing it all the way.
I am next going to try to remove the controller from the garage and then see if I can check if the aerial/receiver part is working correctly. (There is a wooden beam that goes across the back of the controller which prevents me from removing the aerial/receiver at the moment, hence I have to remove the entire controller first.)