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With regard to picture 1 (attached), should I seal the hole in the XPS board with neutral sealant before placing the pipe sleeve over the top and then tanking it, or is the idea that the rubber sleeve will act as waterproofing anyway, once the pipe collar has been sealed against the board using...

Ah OK thanks. I did look into those inserts for 10 mm copper pipe, but just about everywhere stated they were only required for oil lines. Do you actually use them on copper central heating pipes?

Sorry, which option?

A couple of other quick questions if I may: Is it easier to go into the rad valve with 10mm and use a 3-piece adaptor, or would it be better to solder a 15/10 reducer to do away with the reducer in the valve? Not used the latter before and so not sure how good they are? There will be a speedfit...

Excellent, thanks.

Yes and the fact that it won’t be as tight as a solid joint.

Thanks Chris. I assume then that the sweep on the joint won’t be problematic in anyway, e.g. having to go much deeper into the wall? I know that you can go 30 mm into 100 mm block, but me being me I’d rather not go that deep if at all possible, especially as the wall has already been channelled...

As part of an ensuite refurb, I need to move the pipework to a towel rail - currently 10 mm plastic. This will mean channelling the wall again and obviously I don’t want to go to deep on this. Don’t like the idea of putting a plastic fitting in the channelled slot and so my initial thoughts were...

Thanks for your input and this exactly the type of information that I was looking for. I am fine with taping, but the tape will be very close to the edge of the bead, and so I’m not quite sure how to deal with that!? Normally you would taper-off, but obviously I don’t have the space to do that...

k, i’ve attached photographs as requested.

I haven’t taken it apart yet as I wanted to find a potential solution, ahead of stripping it down. What I do know is that the original tap had a 50 mm base, whereas new taps are only 40 mm.

I need to cut into a boxed part of the wall downstairs to access some badly fitted plumbing from when the house was built,. I am wondering what the best approach is? The attached picture gives some idea of what I think maybe the best method, as in staying at least 1 inch away from the edges, to...

I’ve got a horrible feeling that the bath mixer tap I have purchased is not going to cover the holes completely in the bath and wonder what my options are. It’s too late to return the taps unfortunately. Just to complicate things slightly, each tap is Square as opposed to the more normal round...

Ah right, think they are 100mm adapters for clay pipes. Mine is 110 mm and just a bit short for the depth of pipe receptacle. I suspect it is a non-issue, but I would rather ask daft questions then find out the hardware once it is all plumbed in and I can’t get to it!

it’s a bog-standard solvent weld 110 to 50 / 40mm adaptor, as per stock picture:

Thanks for your input. Just so I understand, are you talking about (say) a 20 mm deep piece of 110 mm pipe placed first into the soil pipe and then the pictured adapter going in and sitting on top of it?

Thanks for your input. The other type of adapter unfortunately won’t work as the shower tray and pipework is just slightly offset from the 110 mm pipe.

With reference to the attached picture, if the adaptor is pushed all the way down then it is around 15mm below the top of the pipe, slightly exposing the rubber seal. Of course i can lift the adaptor up so that it is level, but wonder if this movement is an issue? TIA

With a traditional pipe bender, is there a minimum (parallel) offset that can be achieved over a distance of, say, 300mm? For example, could you achieve an offset of 10mm / 20mm / 30mm (and so on) over that distance? I know that benders are marked for 30° for lesser-offsets, but wonder if you...

I had to remove the original moisture board in my ensuite, and I’m about to replace it with good quality plywood. My question relates to whether it is necessary to leave a 10 mm gap around the small room (< 3m²)? If not, what gap is appropriate? TIA