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So they both seem to run fine together. just having a wobble that the double socket powering both devices will overheat/cause a fire. @sparkwright - what made you reassured that it should be ok

All worked no problems. Used a flex outlet as the connector to a 2.5mm and ran to new socket. Let’s hope it can take both appliances now! thanks for the help.

Yep good to go with that! I’ll let you know the result!

Yes I think so. Providing the following would be ok: junction box/push wire connectors in the single/current recessed box, face plate with hole in, tac cable to wall to new socket position?

Thank you. That makes sense I can’t imagine there would be a 13a fuse somewhere in between (other than the plug ha ha) using some P=IV calculations the amps should never go over 20 even if both devices were on their max usage. so where the existing socket is a single recessed into the wall...

So I’m pretty sure the answer will be NO but here goes! I have a kitchen electrical grid (above counter) that controls all integrated appliances. The integrated appliances all have a sunglasses unstitched socket behind them. I now want to add a boiling water tap under the sink and it...

Thanks. I’ll keep trying to get it open. Definitely just a twist no push and twist?

Philips hue for smart lighting :) Just very annoying, they all seem to be the same… impossible to open!

And how much is a new one of those? it’s a new build property so a little disappointed that I can’t open them!

I am trying to remove the cover to replace the bulbs inside. I have tried the following: Push and twist anti clockwise Twist in both directions Pulling the whole unit (definitely not the way to go) Pushing the bulb As you can see in the picture the bulb is loose i just need to remove the...