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Ok, thanks - seems like boarding over will be the easiest. I'm just not sure best way to make the holes safely in the artex for the downlights? I've seen people mention shaving foam or soaking the surface and peeling it off?

Hi, Looking to refurb our bathroom, starting with the ceiling. Current ceiling is artex covered, with a single light in the middle and a passive vent that is piped and exits through the roof (handy). In an ideal world, I'd like 3-4 recessed downlighters and an extractor fan placed centrally...

Yes, thanks they look good. I'm guessing 80mm would be more than sufficient when going into a solid wall? Just read in the comments that the screw diameter is 7mm so may not have to drill out the brackets. Any thoughts on using these filler discs to pack out the couple of iffy holes...

Hi, I've hung an 1800 x 568 vertical rad up in our kitchen ready to be plumbed in. It weighs 48kg dry and sits on 4 metal brackets that have 2 fixing holes each. Afaik the wall is plaster on brick. The metal nut type fixings I bought initially didn't fit through the bracket holes (the fixings...

I mean, a simple yes or no would have sufficed here, but that’s great thanks

Yes. But I’m just trying to understand if the false wall needs to be supported on the floor or if the wall is enough?

Could I get away with a low cross member but one that doesn't actually touch the floor? I think that because the eng. wooden floor is floated, I guess I'm trying to avoid using it to support anything. Alternatively I could lift the floorboard nearest the wall and trim it down so that I can run...

See pic - ignore wires :) Looking to build a false wall along where the C/H pipes are to cover them up and create a nice flat wall to probably place a fridge and some tall units or shelving. My question is, if I were to batten this block wall to attach plasterboard can I get away with just...

Well I hadn't thought of that as an approach...I guess it's one way of solving this

Ignoring wire world on the photo just for a second :), I have a question about the best method to get these central heating pipes moved into (or as close to) the corner as possible, so that I can box them in neatly into the corner and along the ceiling. It's in 22mm copper, so my first thought...

Wondering if polyprop shims work in this situation?

I've built a stud framework to block up an internal doorway between two bedrooms. On one side, I've attached 12.5mm plasterboard but I'm getting a rebate to the existing wall of around 5-6mm at the top and maybe 10-11mm lower down. Was thinking I could take off the 12.5mm and double up 2 sheets...

Solved. Decided going to tile over the whole lot.

Kitchen tiles off, mess created. Pic attached. Plan (currently) is to tile the hob splashback, so I'm going to remove the old tile adhesive and tile up the central area once the kitchen and worktops are down. However, the areas either side I don't massively want to tile, but just have upstands...

Thanks for the response. I’ve just measured up and realised if I bring the units forward at the top it means the left hand run doesn’t end flush with the end of the wall it’s backing onto (kitchen is an upside down L shape)

Hi, Adding another worktop related post to the fray. I can't see anywhere on tinterweb about reducing the width of a worktop. Which makes me think that it's probably not a great idea. I've ordered 3m lengths of laminate worktop that is 635mm wide for a kitchen fit. Ideally, they need to be...

Great, thanks Tigercubrider for the advice. Should I use rawl plugs in the block when I attach the sides? I’m using 5x90mm pz screws. Also what’s recommended for insulation/soundproofing?

That worked, frame is now off. Now just wondering whether to chip off the plaster that’s partially covering the blocks? It’s fairly patchy meaning there’s no straightish surface for the stud timber to sit on. Any further ideas on this greatly appreciated!

Thanks! I’ll give that a go.

Hi, first attempt at doing this. I’m looking to board up this internal door but not really sure how to remove the inner door frame so that I can attach stud work. I’m assuming it needs to come off first? Feels very securely attached - I already pulled some plasterboard off - is there a method...