1. Visiting from the US? Why not try DIYnot.US instead? Click here to continue to DIYnot.US.
    Dismiss Notice

Removing internal door to stud wall, help with removing

Discussion in 'Building' started by AustinSpacious, 24 Jul 2021.

  1. AustinSpacious

    AustinSpacious

    Joined:
    24 Jul 2021
    Messages:
    16
    Thanks Received:
    0
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Hi, first attempt at doing this.
    I’m looking to board up this internal door but not really sure how to remove the inner door frame so that I can attach stud work.
    I’m assuming it needs to come off first?
    Feels very securely attached - I already pulled some plasterboard off - is there a method for removing it?
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Sponsored Links
  3. dba92

    dba92

    Joined:
    24 Jul 2021
    Messages:
    4
    Thanks Received:
    0
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    If you're not precious about keeping the timber in one piece, I've sawn in from the side with a panel saw. It's likely secured with multiple fixing points down each side. When I've taken these off in the past it was easier to break them into 1-2 sections which allowed me to get a little more leverage on a crowbar to pop them out. I'm no DIY expert but it worked for me when doing the exact same task. You will likely loose small bits of plaster along the edges. Not a big problem if you're filling it in anyway.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  4. AustinSpacious

    AustinSpacious

    Joined:
    24 Jul 2021
    Messages:
    16
    Thanks Received:
    0
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Thanks! I’ll give that a go.
     
  5. AustinSpacious

    AustinSpacious

    Joined:
    24 Jul 2021
    Messages:
    16
    Thanks Received:
    0
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    That worked, frame is now off.
    Now just wondering whether to chip off the plaster that’s partially covering the blocks? It’s fairly patchy meaning there’s no straightish surface for the stud timber to sit on. Any further ideas on this greatly appreciated!
     

    Attached Files:

  6. Tigercubrider

    Tigercubrider

    Joined:
    22 Jul 2016
    Messages:
    4,529
    Thanks Received:
    735
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Don't forget that the new timber needs to be set back from the wall surface.
    You need to allow for the plasterboard thickness on both sides, plus the skim coat.
    Better to overestimate the rebate and need more of a skim than underestimate and have a bump in the wall.

    I'd use an old wood chisel to knock off the plaster, it will cut quite well

    Don't forget to add soundproofing and plenty of noggins
     
  7. AustinSpacious

    AustinSpacious

    Joined:
    24 Jul 2021
    Messages:
    16
    Thanks Received:
    0
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Great, thanks Tigercubrider for the advice.

    Should I use rawl plugs in the block when I attach the sides? I’m using 5x90mm pz screws.

    Also what’s recommended for insulation/soundproofing?
     
  8. Tigercubrider

    Tigercubrider

    Joined:
    22 Jul 2016
    Messages:
    4,529
    Thanks Received:
    735
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Yes to rawlpugs/framefixers
    Maybe use some building adhesive as well to fill gaps.

    Rockwool is good. Ideally fill from both sides and leave a small centre gap

    Buy soundproofing not insulation (thermal)
     
  9. Sponsored Links
Loading...

Share This Page