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Hi thanks for your help - in the end I put decent electrical tape around them, which is apparently satisfactory. You're right about making the area noticeable for future residents - at the moment I've mounted the Hive stat back plate over the top and will probably replacev with something more...

Thanks again. Just to clarify, with the thermostat, I'm going to bridge wires in terminal 3 and 1. For terminal 2 and Earth, I'm will just push them into the wall cavity too? (I might stick a Wago on each as that's probably more proper). Thanks

Thanks for the updates. As I understand, the Hive COM is inbuilt, and as RandomGrinch shows, the Honeywell does have a 230v feed to the COMs, so should be all good to go with RandomGrinch's wiring outline for the Hive?

Ah yes you're right, woops! Thanks for your help though, really useful

That's great thanks for that clarification - helps with the confidence in doing this! For terminal 5 (CH COM) and 8 (HW COM), should I just remove from the wiring centre as it seems that they wouldn't be needed? Or I could tether off with a lever nut and pop into the wall cavity (like I might...

Hi I have a Hive HW/CH to replace my Honeywell ST699 programmer and thermostat. I have a conventional boiler and thermostat controlled hot water tank in the airing cupboard. Typical stuff. I understand I need to bridge the live and live switch cables to bypass the old thermostat to enable the...

Thanks. That's what I thought. Does that mean I'll ignore using the com wires?

Hello all I have a honeywell programmer and want to replace this with a hive system. I'm fairly aware of the wiring purpose, but could do with some clarification, if possible. The main issue is that I have multiple wires that have to go into fewer terminals in the hive. Can anyone clarify...

Ah ok thanks - so it's just a preference thing it seems. I think I will as if the wardrobe floor is insulated, then there's less need for anything else sat ontop to be (ie the walls of the wardrobe). Thanks

Building a built in wardrobe above stairwell. So I insulate all of it? Thinking particularly the floor of the wardrobe. See pic. Thanks

Hi I'm building a built in wardrobe. The wall is usual modern house insulated breeze block external wall. Do I leave the back of the wardrobe open onto the external wall (North East facing), maybe with a couple of vents put somewhere, or do I plasterboard a mini stud wall art the back, to...

...Just thought maybe I could just get a sheet of 12mm plywood and attach that to the two (stud) sides walls of the wardrobe. That means the a back to the wardrobe, I can keep a good distance from the wall, and also add in some trickle vents. That would mean there's no insulation between the...

Ah yes I see what you mean. I do actually have a wardrobe I could put in. However, I was worried about the weight. The floor is well built, but I am being overcautious. As a suspended floor over the stairwell, I'm trying to be frugal with any weight on it. However, maybe rather than building a...

Hi thanks for the comment I'm not sure sure what you mean by a moveable wardrobe though? I could maybe create some cubby holes behind the wardrobe possibly but not on that

Hi I'm building a built in wardrobe onto an external wall. I want to avoid any issues with condensation/mould. I am planning to put a 100mm insulated stud wall at the back of the wardrobe to keep the cold wall away from the wardrobe space. Do you think this is all that is needed? I have read...

Hi yeah head clearance is well considered. I've checked it through and through, so all good on that front. What's your view on the post above yours? I'm swaying towards putting the end joist in using a heavy duty corner bracket on the inside of the joist, with twist nails.

Yeah I have heard that too. I think the options are to: 1) Use ring shank nails to butt joint the ledger to the joists 2) Use three 6x100mm screws instead 3) Or use a heavy duty corner bracket and use joist twist nails to secure in (have loads of those already). This is the bracket I'm...

Thanks for that. But wouldn't a screw easily split the wood? The 2x4 is only 38mm wide, so likely to do so? Would the ring shank nails really be stronger than 6x100mm screws? Surely they would hold better? I'm no expert though! These are the screws...

I saw these. Would they really be better (with twist nails) than attaching with the 6x100mm turbo screws? https://www.screwfix.com/p/sabrefix-heavy-duty-angle-brackets-galvanised-60-x-50mm-10-pack/61576#BVQAWidgetID

Thanks for the info, appreciate that. I was actually wondering how to attach the final joists. I can't use joist hangers as the joist plate itself will extend over the side of the mini floor/platform im making, and that would obviously make it look terrible/not possible to plasterboard over as...