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I have been looking for radiators with top feed connections. This is a for a bungalow with a concrete floor and suspected leaks in the buried CH pipework. I want to move most of the radiators anyway, so the logical thing is to install new CH pipe through the loft and drop down where needed. But...

OK, reassuring to know that the water should be safely buried. To be honest I was concerned because while carrying out some other work I ran into a 22 mm copper pipe of some sort, this was only about 100 mm deep and set in the concrete. I think it may have been the (disconnected) gas supply so...

That sounds incredibly time and labour intensive, and only slightly reduces the possibility of damaging a pipe or cable accidentally. Am I missing something?

I wasn't sure which forum to post this under, but my problem is to do with installing underground soil pipes which I guess is a builder's job. I am installing a new ground floor toilet that is located several metres from the existing foul water drain, and the new toilet will also be in the...

Yes, I spent some time poring over Part H. I couldn't find anything definitively saying whether to do it one way or the other.

I am adding a new ground floor toilet and moving an existing one. Is it better practise to tee up both of the soil pipes before it enters the vent stack, or provide separate connections?

Cool, do these normally get used for partiton walls? Or are there issues?

Just to mention I don't believe this wall will require any hidden pipes or cables, so this isn't a factor.

So lets say 15 mm plasterboard + skim, 50 mm batten, 10 mm PB, another 10 mm for tanking+grout+tiles = 85 mm or is that too optimistic? Another place I lived in was a 1950s build with upstairs block walls. Made with low quality fly ash or similar crap (horrible for drilling) but they were...

I am re-doing a bathroom dividing part of it off into a separate toilet. Space is limited and every inch counts. I have a bit of a dilema about what type of wall to use: Wooden stud Pros: Cheap Easy Thin Cons: Relatively flimsy Vulnerable to damp or leaks Metal stud Pros...

OK an update. I finally had the time to carry out a little survey. I drilled a hole vertically down into the floor somewhere in the middle of the building, far from any walls. The drill bit broke through the concrete at around 20 cm deep (the point at which there was no resistance). I...

It's an opportunist thing, since putting in the new soil pipes and drains will require breaking in and doing a significant amount of excavation anyway. I also need to dig down at least part way so that the floor of the wet room can be re-made with a drainage slope. From my experience, once a...

Agree, although just filling with water and making sure it is sealed and there are no air pockets should do the trick, it wouldn't have to be pressurised. I thought that based on what a trademan told me, although they weren't a builder per se. What would be a reliable way to test? Drill a few...

Clearly the concrete would be re-poured although it would be much thinner to accommodate insulation and so on. If this isn't possible, that is basically akin to saying that wet underfloor heating is impossible for this type of building?

I am about to start digging up the concrete floor of my ground floor bathroom. I am putting in 2 new soil pipes and drainage for a wet room Given the amount of work required for this I decided that I might as well break up and excavate the floor of the entire room, and install a modern floor...