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  1. V

    What kind of pipe to replace part of service pipe?

    Thank you. That does should the most sensible. Any idea if the pipe needs a sleeve outside the house?
  2. V

    What kind of pipe to replace part of service pipe?

    As the route of the service pipe needs to be altered to come into the house at a different location I am wondering if mdpe is the way. It will attach to the current copper pipe a few metres from the house. So is mdpe is best material to run the pipe up to the kitchen sink. With a stop cock. Or...
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    Can most Carpenters do a "lay board"?

    The engineer has a140 concrete lintel for the knock through. It's a regular size door. I don't mind using a steel though. He is ok with removing the outside skin of that cavity wall that's becoming an internal also. It's actually A 2 Storey extension. Thanks.
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    Can most Carpenters do a "lay board"?

    See my post above. I uploaded it before adding your quote.
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    Can most Carpenters do a "lay board"?

    This photo sums up the finished idea. I googled valley lay boards and found this. It's from this site previously by noseall The engineer said no other support needed. And it could be a vaulted ceiling in the extension. A roofer I spoke to thought it needed a bit more support.
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    Can most Carpenters do a "lay board"?

    Ok thanks. I googled the grp. Looks a quick way to do it.
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    Can most Carpenters do a "lay board"?

    Thanks. I'll see if first fixers are easy to find. Now I think about it I was advised to use some other product instead of lead. Apparently it's a lot cheaper and I assume easier to work with. Not sure what is called though.
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    Can most Carpenters do a "lay board"?

    As it looks like getting a local Roofer isn't going to be easy I am wondering if getting a Carpenter to do a lay board that is needed and if he wants to he could do the rafters. Apart from the lay board theres the valley so a leadwork specialist would be needed. The rest should be straight...
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    A concrete and screed floor rather than a timber one.

    So the dpm doesn't need to be tucked in with the dpc? That's good if not. Also if 50mm screed is ok that would be handy. Not sure about the underfloor heating. I like the idea but Ive got a lot to learn about it.
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    A concrete and screed floor rather than a timber one.

    We are a fair way into the build and the walls are up and now planning to do the ground floor. The original plan was for a timber floor. But getting someone to do a solid one seems a lot easier. Is this possible considering the damp proof course is already in place and unless I'm mistaken it...
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