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I did do some dead tests originally, but must have gotten it wrong. It was confusing - suffice to say that over the years there have been several changes/additions to the circuit with various old-colours and harmonised colours spliced together in various places.

Finally got it sorted. Yes, the issue was the reds were mixed up.

I should add, I did spend some continuity testing all of the red cores in the 3-core cable between the intermediate switch and the downstairs switch. I placed either 1, 2 or 3 brown sleeves at the end of each core so that I can tell which is which. I will repeat my continuity tests, however, to...

They are connected with a wago connector behind the surface mounted back box. I've checked that there is continuity between the two ends of this core that connects the 2 2-way COMs.

So at long last, the intermediate switch arrived in the post, and I have spent a long time this afternoon unsuccessfully trying to wire it up. I attach 3 pictures of the 3 switches in question. There's a downstairs 2-way switch at the bottom of the stairs, an intermediate switch at the top of...

Oh yes - I've had a closer look at the connections in the diagram rather than just the labels. I see what you mean, thank you.

So to clarify, I can use the L1 and L2 in the intermediate switch?

The wiring diagrams I can find all show the live/switched live from the light fitting entering the switching circuit at one of the 2-way switches, e.g. here and here. In my case, I've added a 3rd switch to control one of my lights, but due to the location of the light and the switches, it is...

Thanks for the replies, I've done some more reading now that I know what sort of motor I've got. If I understand, the "correct" way is to vary the input frequency, but VSDs seem to be a bit more expensive than what I'm looking to spend. A look on rs-online yields these sorts of results...

Thanks for your reply, please find attached a photo of the front of the motor where the 3 wires connect, a rear view of the motor and a picture of the only other label/markings that I can see. The label reads: Edit: Found a spec sheet on rs-online for QLZ 06 series tangential blowers...

My under cabinet fan convector has a 2-speed fan, but I find the low speed setting still too noisy. I'm capable of a bit of soldering and the like, so I was thinking about converting it to a variable speed, or keeping it as 2-speed and somehow reducing the speed of each setting. I have...

I've just sanded down the skirting/architrave etc in one of my rooms, and I'm now trying to re-varnish them to match the woodwork in the rest of the house. I thought it was all just clear varnish, but, having tried an initial couple of coats of Rustins clear satin, the colour of the varnished...

Currently looking up about these Willis systems - there's been some interesting previous discussion on them. Correct, we turn on the hot water once a year or so when guests with a baby visit. At present, all hot water taps are always cold. Any hot water is electric shower (also used to fill up...

Just as a little project, I was thinking about getting one or two solar panels (2-400 Watts) and hooking them up to a DC heating element in my hot water cylinder. I could potentially mount the panel(s) on the shed, which happens to be right next to the external wall behind which the hot water...

Did you decide what you were going to do in the end? I'm in a not-dissimilar situation with a loft room.

Update: thank you for the reassurance. I've now plugged the large gaps with mineral wool/bubble wrap depending on what was easier to insert in each location. The drafts have certainly been reduced. No longer do I get a cold rim around the draw infront of the stop cock on the thermal camera, for...

Update: I installed a Reliance compact 312 PRV from Screwfix (this model is drop tight), just managing to fit it in the short space between the stop cock and the tee to the kitchen appliances. I set it to 3 bar and I've been keeping an eye on it for the past few days. We've had no bangs in the...

In the kitchen, there is plasterboard in front of an external unfilled cavity wall. Between the plasterboard and wall runs various bits of pipework, including the mains supply and central heating pipes coming from the external boiler. Therefore, there are numerous holes in the plasterboard and...

Both sides slope towards the down pipe, and I've cleared my side as best I can. The vegetation on the other side I would only expect to back up into my neighbours guttering. The down pipe runs between our two houses, just ever so slightly on my side of the boundary.

Thanks for the replies, some good thoughts. I've attached some pictures for reference. The picture of the lamp post (pic 3) is what I had visualised in terms of an access hole that I alluded to in the original post, although I need to think about the advantage of cutting a whole section out and...