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Great, thanks for this and noted. I'll proceed when the weather looks settled. I can only get a 1mm packer to fit between the door and the plate the lock rod goes into, so in the centre of the frame tolerances are tight. It's the same top and bottom.

I've looked at the doors over the weekend and realise removing the glass and doors is required to do this. The opening door is on the left in the photo and it's top hinge is the one which starting to fail. The other door seems to be better positioned in the frame. I measured the left door...

The thing in the centre is not a hinge, just a guide. I was thinking if I replaced that with a hinge first it would keep the door in position, and hopefully prevent it moving out of position if I replace the others one at a time. Somebody with Anglian French doors commented on the hinge...

No, those are no longer available (Anglian doors). I bought a replacement set from UPVC Spares4Repairs. I'd rather do the hinges first if possible, but I don't want to remove one and the door move. The glazing unit must weigh a bit and I'd rather not have to take it out if it can be avoided.

The hinges need replacing as the top ones are worn. I've got 3 to fit each side to take the weight better. Most of the sash covers are at 8mm +/-2mm. The photo shows the measurements at the extreme ends of the range. Both doors are 12mm all along the bottom and 10 at the top in the centre. My...

Thank you both for explaining. Could it be the Regulations on using an Earth wire as Live have changed since the wire was installed (probably 40 years ago), or was it just wrongly done then?

I want to swap my old CH thermostat for a new one. Photo of the old one and it's wiring diagram is attached - It is a Honeywell T6360B. I think that; the Earth sleeved wire (on 1) is the Live, Black (2) is N and Red (3) call for heat. The new one is a Drayton RTS2 (diagram also attached)...