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Thanks very much for the help guys, lots to take in here.

I'm looking at fixing 50x50mm vertical battens at 400mm centres onto a party wall (for noise reduction), but I'm not sure which fixings I should use or the spacings between the fixings. It's a 1930's semi, single brick party wall with sand/cement render and plaster (which is old), and given...

Hi, I can't directly comment as I'm currently researching what to do for my wall (neighbours are noisy). So far I've been told to build a M-A-M solution (mass air mass) using studwork and 2 layers of plasterboard with Green Glue damping solution between the plasterboard (supposed to be...

Thanks for the quick reply Deluks, I'll give this some serious consideration. I'm not keen on losing roomspace because of these morons next door so the bar solution may be out of the question, but a "decoupled" stud wall using a layer of soundbloc/lafarge board then green glue dampening...

Hi, Sorry to drag up an oldish thread, but I'm currently very close to punching my neighbours, but before I do I'm giving serious thought to soundproofing my wall. I've had a quote for M20AD panels - bit of a joke - so I'm resigned to the fact that I will have to lose some roomspace to...

I'm sorry for being touchy actually, I perhaps should not have been so vague, but just seemed like a barrage of negativity and I thought I was asking a perfectly reasonable question given the facts I have about the device. Anyway, I am naughty in that I haven't had it serviced, so to answer...

Woah there! First of all, you are all way too assuming, and my fault for not being detailed enough. 1. Gas fire was installed by an RGI. 2. I did not think to ask him if I could block the vent because it wasn't the freezing depths of winter 3. I took the docs to mean the 50cm2 ventilation...

Hi, I'm looking for some expert opinions on removal of a room-level air vent I had put in to serve an old DFE fire, but the fire was replaced a while ago and the docs suggest the vent is not required. A little history first, sorry for the length; when we bought the house there was a DFE fire...

My house is also 1930's and walls appear to be sand/cement render beneath the plaster skim and horsehair... and also my internal partition walls are wooden frames that are bricked up within the frames. :shock: In some places its gone hollow and is cracking quite bad, looks like it's now...

Doh! New that, was just testing you :) thanks Nige.

Thanks mark. DFE = decorative flame effect or living flame. It's an old class 1 flue, don't think it will need a lining putting in as the new burner I'm getting is suitable for class 1, but will clear it with the installer. What are hens teeth?

I know you meant well, but laughin about my question wasn't what I was expecting. :) It's all very well saying "get a new fireback".. the problem is that fireback brick was a custom one that came with the original cast iron fireplace (was already in the house when we moved in)... have you any...

A few more here showing that curved casted (clay?) fireback removed. It has "No. 1a" moulded in the back. Where it 'sat' behind the burner tray.. it sat between the back of the surround where the cement still is, and a metal bracket that runs behind the burner tray, which I think is...

In the last few you can see the gaps that go through and into the back of the fire surround.. it's these I propsed to patch up with fire cement - you can see what looks like fire cement was used to fix the curved back in place behind, with the imprint on it. Could I put a cast iron plate here...

Hi all, not sure if this should be in the building or plumbing section for the gas people. I've got a pre-cast fireplace with a small DFE burner tray in it. I'm getting another tray for it as I'm not happy with the current one, but that side, the fireback behind the burner tray has cracked...

Not seriously, just mildly. Plans had changed after the wall had been skimmed, which is bloody typical. :roll: Thanks for the input chaps.

I might do that, pull the rest of the slack down and extend to accomodate the FCU's, but TBH sockets aren't really required in that location. A hob is going on the worktop in the middle (seperate supply fed from the left which you can't see in these pics).

Thanks plugwash. Just to clarify, this is acceptable so long as I stick to within 150mm of the zone?....

There is a cooker hood and 2.5kw single oven being installed in the middle of the attached picture. The most economical way to chase the wiring in for them I've drawn on in green, but is this the right way? I'm going to convert the socket into a double box for FCU's for the oven and hood...

I'd seen that elsewhere but not entirely keen on the flex outlet being visible. Was wondering if there would be anything against running the T&E out with the flexible vent where it goes through the wall, then make the connection inside the chimney.