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So, thanks everyone, but I've decided to draw a line under this, it's a very inefficient machine and reluctantly I have to accept that buying a heat pump replacement is the sensible option.

Thanks. I desoldered the main power relay and tested it, seems fine, nice loud click, switched poles show continuity when energised, <1 ohn resistance. The board looks ok, I can't see any dry joints. There are other relays though, including one that looks like it switches on the secondary heater.

From the attached diagram, it looks like live goes via the main switch and the door switch, then to the motor, and then to the heater. Neutal goes to P-2 on the main controller board, then the two elements in the heater are controlled from there by completing the circuit via P-1 and P-3. There...

Thank you both. I took the heater to bits yesterday. Both cut outs were reading continuity and the two elements have the correct resistances for the rated power. The element does heat up sometimes, usually after the machine has not been touched for a day. But it always stops after a few minutes...

My old AEG vented dryer head developed a new fault. At the start of a cycle, it heats up, but soon the heater goes off and it runs indefinitely blowing cold air. I have checked: Door switch Drum heat sensor Heating element thermostats Vent and hose Seems like the behaviour I'd get if it was...

I'm an idiot! It was just a duff capacitor, but I'd forgotten there's a 30s timer between pressing start and the drum turning. I just wasn't waiting long enough.

Interesting thought about the callout. I know they sell spares, maybe it's possible to return them if not required.

It's as free as it's ever been.

It does, and indeed on one occasion it ran from me turning at the same time as pressing the start button. I think the motor is brushless

There's deffo a relay, I can hear it clicking, I can test it. But is a lack of sustained voltage at the motor what we'd expect? It had assumed the board might be (correctly) turning off the power in response to a detected fault. It's really frustrating; I'm happy to invest in keeping this thing...

Thanks, will try. I know that there's no voltage on the motor terminals other than for a moment when it's turned on. The motor did run one time which makes me think the motor is ok, am I wrong?

Seems fine, reads 8uF on my meter.

This is a crosspost from ukwhitegoods, where nobody replied - hoping for a bit of luck here! My old dryer has been used daily since 2005 and owes me nothing. But a new dryer is £500 so I'd like to fix it. But I've run out of ideas. The symptom: When the start button is pressed, there is a...

When you say the seal, do you mean the bag a new element is stored in before installation? I did have one once that tripped the first box as soon as it warmed up, for this reason. In the end I baked it in the top oven and it fixed the problem, presumably because some water was removed. But in...

I have a really old neff fan oven. Fine through a few elements over the years, but otherwise really solid. It's started tripping the rcd, but only after 30 mins at max temperature. I suspect the element, but before I buy a replacement, is there anything else I should check?

So my 3y old Miele vac choked after someone tried to use it to suck hair out of a shower. I know, right! What happened was, one of the bearings on the motor drive shaft exploded, I think maybe water got in through the seals. I was about to buy a new machine because replacement motors for these...

The landing socket is on the ring and just used for the vacuum cleaner sometimes, so this could work.

That's really interesting, thanks. It seems like whatever regulations you look at there are incomplete definitions. I can easily put a lock on the cupboard door. I'm owner-occupier so it doesn't need inspecting, but of course safety is my first concern, then insurance.

I did also consider just extending the cable to about 3x its length, not sure I haven't just done that! E: found this https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/KBJB0011.html

So could I screw an extension socket to the wall behind the washer and feed that through the wall instead? The distance from the plug to the edge of the shower would be 2.8m. The cupboard is full room height with a closing door I built it from MDF sheet.