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Is this what you've mentioned above Glenbirnie http://www.hilti.com/holcom/page/module/product/prca_rangedetail.jsf?&nodeId=-10144&selProdOid=8891 Looks like the sort of thing i'm talking about, just need to find something a little more affordable lol

I don't doubt you're right re the tool i'm thinking of, shame really, it can't be that difficult to make a 2 piece tool that can omit/detect a signal through a wall(s)

I work for a council mainly carrying out maintenance to tenants properties. There are occasions when we need to drill through walls but need to find out exactly where the other side of the hole will be. Obviously a long drill will go through both walls in one go, but as said, there are times...

Postcrete is the easiest way, add it to the bucket and pour water on...if you'd rather knock some concrete up get a bag of ballast and a bag of cement. Gauge 6 parts ballast to 1 part cement, mix together and add water until it's sloppy (not dry and not watery), pour into your bucket...

I've heard this new fangled cement stuff is good for making boots with :D

I'm assuming the pipes have been made off properly and don't leak...? Just mix a small amount of sand and cement (5-1'ish) and fill the holes flush to the floor.

It looks like part of it has been over pointed at sometime before, i'm guessing it looks like a 5-1 mix. Looks a bit sandy for a standard 4-1 mix. You need to get hold of a small quantity of yellow building sand and an even smaller quantity of cement. Mix a 5-1 together and let it go off...

If you buy decent quality screws (box full) they will come with a screw driver bit in the box.

Did we come to the conclusion there was or wasn't a cavity? If there's no cavity then insulating the interior wall will help, but may move the problem to the next coldest area. If there is a cavity then insulating that would be sensible. Of course if there is a cavity and that part of the...

Brick acid....

The first and very obvious problem is access to the top of the chimney, there may be some brave/daft soul with a long enough ladder but it looks more like a scaffolding job. So, it wants to be a one visit job with scaffolding up. Have you thought about some type of spikes set on top to make...

Not being the sort to force my views on others i'll tread carefully. Joe, you are right it is condensation....but....why does the condensation manifest it's self in a particular place when the weather turns very cold but still dry? It is my opinion that condensation shows it's self on the...

Still sounds like cold bridging to me (sorry joe-90). I know there are still quite a few who dispute the existance of cold bridging being the cause of mould and damp on internal walls but just two days ago i removed external bricks to reveal a cavity bridge, the other side of which was...

If condensation was dripping off the window and down i suspect you would be able to follow the course of it past the bottom of the window and onto the window edge of the sill. I don't think that's the problem. As the wall is papered i suspect if the issue is cold bridging, condensation forms...

Is the window sill wet? Does moisture drip off it and onto the lower wall? Is the effected area wall papered? If you dont have damp getting onto the wall in a way you can trace i'd suspect cold bridging, especially as you say it has got worse in cold but not wet weather. Woody will...

Assuming your ok about running a pipe above ground as a tempory measure. Could you not pipe the fallpipe (same size pipe) to a suitable discharge point? Either to the sewer you mention or alternatively across the damaged patio to some place away from the house. Indeed if possible you could...

My opinion is that well laid/pointed engineers look ok in the grand scheme of things. Engineering bricks exist for a reason and as said, if done properly they look fine in your type of job. But do not render over and below dpc, by doing that you create a bridge for moisture.

Sorted now Woody, sorry i didn't know that's how the forum is set up.

3m isn't a lot, just lay enough suitable duct for your needs, ensure both ends are good for future installation/removal of pipes/cables etc and lay your insulation/concrete. I'd say 2 runs of 110mm would be plenty for your purpose.

Thanks Woody, further info on email to you.