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So what do you suggest ?. High pressure cleaning will remove everything anyway and the strip the concrete of the wall also if you wish and leave the concrete open to attack by mildew and spore growth. I find I have to clean my concrete and walls yearly with a high pressure...

Hydrochloric acid is good. You can purchase Brick cleaner from most merchants which contains this acid in a diluted form.

No not at all. Can you give an answer to my question ? It may be beneficial to the OP.

Softus wrote [ What happens if the valves jams shut or an electrical fault holds them shut ??.

Good luck with your endeavors Fumbduck . Its good to see a diyer on these forums with a bit of tenacity and only spending £200 to acheive a mains pressure system from a vented cylinder.

Fumbduck wrote I was doing some head scratching and just figured that out as you posted. It must be late. Well done any way. I think you will get some grief however about the open vent. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Go to the heat bank website and click on "Mains conversion...

I can see the flow switch on one side but the outlet on the other side of the plate seems to T back into the pipe connected to the cylinder between what looks like a chrome isolating valve (or could be a non -return valve) and a galvanised pipe in the corner. Can this be right ...

reggie76 wrote So track the floors . :D

That was suggested about 15 posts back.

I would suggest it has nothing to do with you boiler being man enough but more to do with the fact that you are relying on gravity circulation to heat the cylinder of water.

Kim reed wrote Are you certain the system was fully depressurised when you pressed the valve on top of the expansion vessel. Sounds like a duff expansion vessel. :(

Like this Paul. Problem is the thermostatic sensor senses cold water initally, so the flow passes through the second combi until the sensor senses heat and shuts off the flow through the second combi .

Paul Barker wrote A blend valve has three ports. Cold inlet - Hot inlet and Blended outlet. Do you mean a thermostaticaly controlled three port divertor. It sounds good if I knew what you were talking about, a diagram would be good.

Think of your prv as a spring loaded tap. (purely hypothetical) But it never opens as the pressure is too low. Then some day someone turns the pressure up or manually turns it open. Hey presto, the spring loaded tap opens and discharges filthy water. Because the spring...

Kim Reed wrote The same reason water runs from your tap when you turn it on ??. PRESSURE.

Dirt in the system has obviously lodged in the prv . The valve has obviously opened whether manually by your husband or perhaps he inadvertantly over pressurised the system when refilling and the prv discharged causing it to stick open due to corrosion or debris lodged on the valve...

kim reed wrote I thought you said the water was leaking from the AAV vent port as the little cap is missing ?? Why are you stuck if you already know this or are you now suggesting the water is leaking from the prv .???

kim reed wrote Well then your AAV is different from mine which is identical to the one in ChrisRs photograph. My car dust cap actually is slightly larger than the AAV cap but it does fit and is nothing that a few wraps of PTFE wouldnt cure. Have you lost the AAV cap ??.

Everyone DO know everything . Its just the individual who dont know everything.

Kim Reed wrote Go out to your car and remove the dust cap on the valve which holds the air in the tyre and screw it unto the AAV. Now re-pressurise your boiler system and fire up the boiler. Refer to the FAQ section. Sounds fine. Rewfer to the FAQ section regarding re -pressurising.