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Hi, the thickness of the engineered wood is 15mm and the joist spacing is about 330mm - 340mm I'm now thinking our best option is to remove the insulation and fix 18mm ply to batons at the bottom of the joist to give a 'solid' base to the joist spacing, therefore allowing us to not have any...

Because the flooring will be running through the hallway and into the extension. If we had the flooring running across the joists it would mean the flooring in the hallway would run across it rather tahn along the hall (hope that makes sense). It would just look wrong.

Hi all, On Monday we are due to have UFH installed in our new extension. The UFH system is on a suspended floor, with insulation between the joists on batons, and aluminium spreader plates on top of the insultion. We had chosen engineered wood flooring and the plan was to glue this...

There is an earthing block near the CU. I'll lift up the floorboards, as the mains water and gas run underneath near there and take a look

OK I'll have a look. It should be earthed to the same place the consumer unit is?

Thanks for the response. The only pipes I removed were from the feed into the kitchen, and there was no wiring to these, so I presume the mains is still bonded as before.

Hi all, Just wanted to confirm something with you. I have recently changed my sink in the kitchen and replaced the piping with plastic. My dad mentioned that the sink now needs to be earthed as the earth connection has been removed due to replacing the piping with plastic. After...

Cool, to be honest, removing the cupboard may be a pain when it needs servicing, but I can do that without too much hassle. As long as it's safe, I'd rather have to remove it every now and then, than have an ugly boiler standing out in my new kitchen.

OK here are a few snaps of the boiler and cupboard. This is the top. you can see the area already cut out which would be an area greater than that required (307cm/2), but I am going to enlarge this by cutting away the extra outlined with the black line. And this is the...

OK I get what your saying, although with the cupboard practically open at the top and with the vent on the underside being at least 264 cm/2 surely that makes it OK regarding the vents. Clearance is another matter. Unfortunately there is no reference to the clearance required in a vented...

The cupboard is removable when the boiler needs servicing so that shouldn't be a problem. Is that the only reason it would be classed as not to current standards or due to vents/clearance? Most importantly, would it be safe?

I have just fitted my kitchen and want to put my existing boiler into a cupboard. The model is Worcester Bosch 24Si II (manual http://www.worcester-bosch.co.uk/index.php?fuseaction=literature.detail&con_id=5050&from_id=5029). Having read the manual, once the boiler is in the cupboard it will...

I haven't installed the boiler it was already there, all I've done is remove the plug and hardwire into a FCU. I checked inside the boiler and the black flex was not connnected to anything, so only the brown and blue are used. I've wired it up and everything is functioning fine. I'll...

Looking on screwfix it definately says that the switched FCU is double pole

There is a room stat in the hallway. The instructions state "The connection to the mains nust either be: A 3amp fused 3 pin plug and unswitched socket outlet or a double pole isolator with a contact seperation of 3mm in both poles and supplying the appliance and controls only." I take...

It's a combination boiler and the made worcester.

:D Unfortuately it had been taken off before I got to it. I've had a look in the boiler manual and when referring to the electrical installation it only mentions a live (brown or red) and a neutral (black or blue) connections. There is no mention of anything else apart from the earth...

Hi, I'm going to hardwire my boiler into a FCU. The plug has already been cut off and the flex is 3 core and earth. How should this be wired? I assuming that as it has the extra core it should be used? I'm also presumming that it's OK to use a 13amp FCU if I change the fuse to a 3amp...

The problem is as of tomorrow the kitchen's being fitted. I don't think I'll get an electrician out tomorrow or early next week. I could however keep the cooker cable in the wall so that I could add the socket in the future if I get it connected back up to the CU. I the meantime I'm going...

Does that mean that an electrician could wire up the existing 6mm cable running to the Bill Box into the CU? They would then not need to re-wire/add wire to the kitchen?