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Thanks everyone. They'll be coming out. It was the thatched-group web page which which prompted me to make this posting in the first place

Eight years ago I installed some recessed ceiling lights in the upper floor of our thatched house and installed fire hoods over each one in the loft space. Ever since I've wondered whether I can increase the safety of this arrangement by installing a further box - made of plasterboard say - over...

For those watching this thread, I worked methodically along the circuit and isolated the fault to - apparently - one of two junction boxes. I say "apparently" because the connections appeared sound, but when remade the fault disappeared. One of the boxes was quite dusty inside (it was in the...

I can see that I'll just have to resign myself to methodically checking all the connections, but I think I'll start with those smoke alarms as they were the only things I'd touched when the problem first arose. Thanks for the advice

I thought "loose connection" as well, but the behaviour is shown by every light, and, as it is a radial circuit, won't this imply that the loose connection will be at or between the consumer unit and the first light on the circuit? I've checked these and they seem to be OK.

When I turn on a filament light on one of my lighting circuits, it comes on OK, but after one or two seconds brightens a little. Flourescent lights flicker a little and after two or three seconds begin to glow steadily and gradually assume full brightness as normal. This behaviour only affects...

Thanks everyone. I'll make up a scraper. As I've got over 10 metres to do, this will save time in the long run as well as ensuring the same profile throughout.

Thanks. I'll have to use a plane as I've not got a router, but your tips should help me make a reasonable job of it.

I need to put a bullnose on 18mm thick timber which will then be used as the top to some timber wainscoting. Can anyone offer any tips as to how I can do this easily and with reasonable accuracy with only basic tools such as a plane or surfoam?

It'll be accessible via the floor board I'll have to lift to gain access to the floor space

OK - I only have the cheaper version of crimper and only need to lower this one socket. So rather than get or hire the professional crimper I'll replace the whole cable in the wall and have a junction box in the floor space above.

The cable will run vertically downward. Crimping looks the best option - thanks

I need to lower a power socket by about a couple of feet. It was original sited over a worktop in a kitchen, but the house has been revamped so that this is now in a living area and I'd like to lower it to be in keeping with other living areas. What is the best way of attaching the extra length...

Just to update anyone who may be following this thread. I've tried the diamond drill and it does work, but very slowly. OK if you've only got 2 or 3 holes to drill but not if you have several (like me). So its back to the traditional method and hope I find the mortar joints cooperate! I reckon...

Thanks. I remember finding this site as well, but wasn't sure what to make of it. The oxygen sensors are both new and the emissions are OK implying the cat is working properly. I haven't looked at a spark plug, but any fouling ought to be reflected in excessive oil consumption of which there is...

I have a 2003 Mitsubishi Pinin and the engine monitoring light keeps coming on and off. Mostly it is on, but can go off for about 50 to 100 miles before it comes on again. I've had it checked by a Mitsubishi dealer and each time it gives an error code of P0421Warm-up Catalyst Efficiency below...

I thought of the Google search after I did the posting. I've now ordered a diamond core drill which I suspect is what you had in mind. I'll leave a posting here to let you know how I got on.

Thanks, that's the reassurance I was looking for. I know the floor has been damp because I have tested it before, but I've installed a French drain outside the property to alleviate this, and this patch was well away from the area where damp had been a problem. The adhesive seemed to have cured...

I live in an old cottage built in churt, a form of flint, bonded with lime mortar. The stone is very hard which makes fixing things to a wall a challenge. The traditional method which works well is to excavate holes in the mortar joints, drive in wooden pegs, and screw into those. This is easy...

I'd like to think it was that, but these tiles have been down such a long time I'd have thought it unlikely. And why only this patch? If someone has encountered the same phenomenon I'd be reassured