I need to put a bullnose on 18mm thick timber which will then be used as the top to some timber wainscoting. Can anyone offer any tips as to how I can do this easily and with reasonable accuracy with only basic tools such as a plane or surfoam?
Forming a bullnose on timber
- Thread starter umborne
- Start date
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cut a piece off card to the profile
cut a length off wood a foot longer than you need or several lengths
hand plane take off the corner then the corner off the corner dont do more than one pass at the same angle alter the angle slightly if nessesery
use the template as you go
sand to smooth without stopping on any one spot or angle
or use a router
cut a length off wood a foot longer than you need or several lengths
hand plane take off the corner then the corner off the corner dont do more than one pass at the same angle alter the angle slightly if nessesery
use the template as you go
sand to smooth without stopping on any one spot or angle
or use a router
A bull nose plane or a spoke shave would be best. Then a few passes with an electric sander or sandpaper on a long flat block say about 250mm long.
How you stand and how the work is supported will go a long way to getting a nice even edge. And long even, light strokes
How you stand and how the work is supported will go a long way to getting a nice even edge. And long even, light strokes
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um - another method is to use a 'scratch-box or block'. Basically, if you've got a ½ round file and a small bit of steel plate (maybe 2mm thick) you file the wanted profile into the steel (the negative shape of your bullnose) to create a scraper.
You then follow big-all's plane method to knock the corners off the timber and then scrape the profile with your recently made scratch-block. You can hold the steel in your hand (if it's big enough) or mount it on a block of timber to form a handle (hence scratch- block). This is quicker & more accurate than the glasspaper method, and was the traditional way of producing profiles in the absence of machinery or special moulding planes. It's also good if you've a lot to do.
You then follow big-all's plane method to knock the corners off the timber and then scrape the profile with your recently made scratch-block. You can hold the steel in your hand (if it's big enough) or mount it on a block of timber to form a handle (hence scratch- block). This is quicker & more accurate than the glasspaper method, and was the traditional way of producing profiles in the absence of machinery or special moulding planes. It's also good if you've a lot to do.
I used to find it was easier to use a bull nose one-handed, rather than something like a nr 4 which I found harder to control on a the curve.
I was thinking of a normal spoke shave, but perhaps only good if you could stand directly over the timber, instead of trying to use it to one side of you.
I was thinking of a normal spoke shave, but perhaps only good if you could stand directly over the timber, instead of trying to use it to one side of you.
A
awbcm
cut a piece off card to the profile
I find templates made from cardboard are as much use as a one legged man in a backside kicking competition (not very accurate ). I tend to use plastic like a old credit card but the best I found is thin sheet tin or sheet metal. If you use sheet metal for your template you can also use it as a scratch block ( kill two birds with one stone ).
I dint know if you have a circular saw, but if you have use it to make the first cut set it to cut at 45º. After that use your hand plan.
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