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Cheers Mike!

Hi Guys, Just a quickie i hope. MK RCD labeled up 1 to 4. Am i right in saying 1 = Supply Phase, 2 = Phase Out, 3 = Supply Neutral, 4 = Neutral out. ? Cheers Jambo

I have a wireless Worcester Digistat and if i have the option again i will definately go for a wired alternitive. The Digistat plays havoc with my WiFi Access Point and my Baby Monitor. Jambo

To do what u want to do (dim only the main lights and leave the spots on) would require a relay in the setup, otherwise the switch would dim the spots too (assuming the transformer is dimmable and the bulbs aren't Compact Florecent or LEDs). Wouldn't have a clue how to wire it up though...

Just went back to work (ruptured my patellar tendon) so haven't had anytime on my hands. Found the battery though when shopping in Morrisons (LR1) so will be fitting that and trying to reprogramme remote. Will post results on here when doen (eventually). Cheers Again Guys Jamie

Might get some interferance. Best to use double shielded Coax and if possible run in metal conduit eart at one end (mate is sky installer and thats what i was told when i asked him for advice). Regards Jamie

Cheers tim, i am working on getting a new battery for the fob (wierd shape battery, looks about the same diameter as a AAA but about half the height) and then will start trying different combinations of buttons to try to reprogram remote. Will also work on getting some better pics of the serial...

I wud be happy to adjust the timer but have no idea how to reprogram remote to operate unit. Wud make life alot easier but i wud still wanna fit the limit and stop switches. 2x Push to break switches from maplin and some telephone cable should do it by the looks of the tiny wires that are used...

Got a copuple more pics for you all. Looks like there are did switches to setup a timer mechanism to stop the door after a certain time. Anyone know where i can get an idea of what make/model the unit is? Jamie

Hi Guys, Just been up and had another look. Seafood, You were bang on the money. Tried your idea of wireing it up to a 2-Way switch and ...... Nothing. So got out the old multi meter and worked out that there was current going to the motor but nothing was happening. Then found 2-Pop Fuses...

Cheers for the info guys. I will take some pics later and post em up ASAP. Will also try reprogramming the remote. Nothing happens (except clicking noise and LED lights up) when the test button is pressed. Thanks Jamie

Hi Guys, My mother in law has just purchased a house with a garage at the bottom of the garden. This garage has a remote controlled electric door. The MIL has the key fob but cannot get it to work. I was asked to take a quick look but could not see any make/model signs on the outer cover so...

Equitum: 4mm would most def not suffice. Hot Tub needs 16 Amps, 2 x 1.3 kW heaters, plus Lighting, Plus the voltage drop over the run. Worked it all out and i could have gone with 10mm but thought i'd go 16mm so room for expansion later (don't wanna rip up my decking & patio again to rerun...

Should ask DNO to come out, pull fuse and replace afterwards. They might be able to fit an isolator too to avoid such situations in the future. Jambo

Total run of 16mm will be approx 25 meters and will be running both my shed and my hot tub/decking area. The cable was procured througha friend for next to nothing (50m cost me £25). Cheers for all your help guys but i think i'm gonna install a seperate RCD unit and get my DNO to supply PME as...

Anyine know somewhere that stocks MEM & Crabtree boards? Have looked in TLC and CEF website is not working! Jamie

As long as both adhere to the same safety standards (MOT for car & British Standards for Electrics) it is down to personal choice but personally i'd go for the second, i wouldn't wanna get stuck trying to put a 100m coil of 16mm SWA, a coil of 2.5mm, a coil of 1.0mm and a coil of 10mm into the...

Hi Guys, Just started pricing up a MK board and i don't think they make a split load unit for my needs. These are what i would need for a full rewire in my house. 30mA RCD = 2 Module 4 x 32A Ring Mains - 3 Floors + Kithchen = 3 Module 1 x 40A Radial - Shower = 1 Module Edit: 1x 6A...

Part of the reason i'm doing a full rewire & changing out CU is to tidy things up and get rid of the henley (will have to do the same with the telephoney stuff there too, thats the stuff taped up in earthing insulation tape) but the main reason is for safety, the previous owner was a plasterer...

Cheers John, think i will still go back to tlc and price up a replacement though. As you have both said, fit for purpose would be best. On a sidenote i have a couple of pics of the current setup, anyone think it needs replecing? Jamie[/img]