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Hi, The walls of my bathroom are panelled with large sheets of varnished/stained 7mm plywood. The outer surface is designed to give an appearance of T&G, but it is very dark and I have decided to paint it. Could anyone recommend the best approach? I have sanded it down and was planning to...

Yes, there's a lot of confusion in the world about all sorts of things.. one thing I've learned in life is that there are no perfect answers or solutions to anything, there are nearly always trade-offs somewhere along the line, even within so called 'best-practice', whether in contruction, DIY...

Yes, you're right of course, although I suspect a German manufacturer of construction materials wouldn't be manufacturing with them in mind.. either way, I've just come across this set of instructions from Knauf itself...

It also occurs to me, and this is pure speculation, that Knauf being a German company might issue instructions for installing in German buildings, which are generally much more solidly built than British ones... lots of steel and concrete, much less timber, and therefore perhaps less likelihood...

Because the Aquapanel that I bought did not come with Knauf's installation advice. In fact I had no idea that the product was produced by Knauf, although looking closely I now see in very small print on the instruction label that is attached to each panel that the product is , "manufactured for...

Thanks for the advice. All makes sense, although in relation to the following: .. it seems there is conflicting advice about this as the Wickes guidance sheet on "Working with Aquapanel" says the following: "Aquapanel screws at 200mm centres. Panels should be lightly butted, leaving a 2-3mm...

I wonder whether someone can help me... I've panelled shower cubicle with aquapanel leaving 2-3mm gaps at joins, including the corner. I've read that it is sufficient to join boards with reinforcing tape bedded in with flexible adhesive. But does this make joins sufficiently waterproof? For...

Thanks Hugh, I think I'll stick with the conventional trap and take my chances. I've managed to identify a route that will involve less twists and turns now, so the shower and washing machine will now meet at compression T which I can dismantle and clean if necessary. Downstream of the T there...

Thanks for the advice guys. All makes sense. Everything downstream from, and including, the point where the washing machine and shower outlet pipes meet should be accessible for cleaning... am I right in saying that that is the key issue here? [/url] What does this do though? Mike

I'm trying to set up the waste pipes for my washing machine which I've moved and a new shower. I wonder whether anyone could comment on the following proposal: I plan to run a 40mm waste pipe for a washing machine for about 2m along an inside wall on the ground floor. It will then run for...

Now looks as if the ceiling consists of plastered chipboard... I thought it was an old lath and plaster affair. Anyway I guess chipboard in a damp environment is not a good idea, so maybe best to remove ceiling entirely and replace with plasterboard?

I'm installing a shower cubicle in a room with a woodchip papered ceiling. My intuition tells me that this is not a good combination and I'm not sure what to do about it. Would I get away with painting it with an appropriate paint (eggshell or something similar)? I'm reluctant to remove the...

Thanks Richard, I guess I should go for a Mapei adhesive then as the SLC and (acrylic) primer are from them. I'll take the Unibond back to B&Q. Cheers, Mike

The stuff I have at the moment is Unibond all-in-one adhesive and grout.. also looks like it is thinset 3mm.. I guess from what are saying I should return it and get something different? Not quite sure what that is, but assuming you mean putting a blob of ahesive on the tiles and sticking...

I'm not out by that much.. 2-5mm depending upon where I measure from.. but the floor is only 2 x 2.5 m2 overall. The problem is the shape of the floor.. although only visible when a batton is placed across it, it rises to a sort of hill in the middle, dropping down to three of the corners, but...

I've used some latex self-levelling compound to even out a concrete floor prior to tiling. Unfortunately the surface hasn't ended up as flat as I was hoping, with ridges left in some places where the flow ended. I had to pour the self-levelling compound from two different corners of the room...

[/url] Thanks, looks like that might be the way to go!?

Thanks Joe. How does that work exactly? Could I lay this onto self-levelling compound? How do I stick it down? Do I then tile onto this using ordinary flexible tile adhesive? I bought some for tiling on concrete, but maybe I will have to take it back and get something else instead?

Thanks for this. Actually, following further inpsection I don't think it's a crack in the main concrete slab, but a red coloured screed that was laid on top of this. I chiselled a 5cm diameter loose piece out of it that was about 1cm thick and found that is was lying on top of a smooth solid...

I'm planning to tile an old concrete floor in a downstairs bathroom. It's cracked in places and even makes a slight creaking noise in places when you walk on it although there isn't any noticable movement. I was planning to cover it in self-levelling compound before tiling. Would that be enough...