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Well I've had the WM out and have to say it was clear as a bell (I had already cleaned out the pipes under the sink) we're at a complete loss now as to what it could be. It does now look like our houses are not solid concrete floors, more likely concrete blocks sitting on concrete T beams so...

I think I've narrowed it down to the underside of the WM, the smell there is strongest. I'm going to disconnect it on the weekend and see what's lurks inside.

No macerator, and I don't have floorboards, the floors in our houses are concrete with insulation foam boards then chipboard t&g, on which I have an oak floor. Pretty sure no pipes pass directly under the house.

The WM drains in to a connection of the underside of the kitchen sink, that in turn runs out through a pipe in to the garden and down in to a trap so does not collect with the waste from other parts of the house, at least not until it reaches the front of the house where there is a drain cover...

"Thought just occured to me. Does the smell get worse when you use the hotter washes?" Actually when the machine is running the smell seems to disappear, the only hot washes so far have been to try to do a maintenance wash. Thanks to all those who posted. I think I will disconnect and take...

John raises some good points, but I think there are also other things that are being overlooked: What's the point of the 100a switch fuse? Not currently offering any protection as far as I can see; the main protection is the 32a MCB or at least there wouldn't appear to be discrimination...

Wow, thanks all for the replies so far. To answer a couple of points: WM drains in to the waste underneath the sink, I have had all of the waste section out and cleaned. I'm actually an Electrician and never heard of bad connections smelling of rotten eggs, but for my own sense of pride...

Hi, For at least 8 weeks now we've had an intermittent "bad egg" smell in our kitchen; sometimes it is foul, other times nothing at all. Needless to say we've been hunting around trying to locate where in the kitchen it seemed to be emanating from, but with little luck; we even called out...

I haven't checked this properly yet, but in general the new regs apply to alterations and additions. If you're not doing any rewiring then i would guess that you would be ok to replace. I'll check the regs and get back to you P.S I'm guessing that you've checked that the new cooker works...

I personally would be more than happy to take on somebody with a willingness to learn and apply themselves regardless of their age. Can't be any worse than some of the complete muppets they throw out of school these days. Last one i had done a year, looked really promising and then decided he...

Also as far as i'm aware the electrical installation (as with Gas safety) will no longer be an item included within the HIP's reports. Was going to be but they've binned it. Of course we all need an energy efficiency statement for our homes but electrical safety is not important really...

Thank you ricicle :oops: Very basic and foolhardy error on the motor calc, but as for the cable in the thermal insulation Ed neglected to mention it was exposed on one side, in his words "through thermal insulation for 500mm" which following the link it obviously is not. Scott

I would also look at your continuity readings! The r1 and rN readings should be almost identical, 0.2 ohms difference seems quite substantial. How are you carrying out your ring final tests/what tester are you using/is the circuit on an RCD (using trip lock on the tester)? I'm yet to...

Steve, I think to what you refer is an item from the on site guide and not directly covered within BS7671 (and i can't see where it mentions "even if it's 16mm"). I think this query is all about sound design (in this case ccc of cables). We know, from the guide, you can have many points...

If your going to use a 4mm SWA then why not just a 3core radial? It's current rating, based on what we've been told, is 34 amps making it a perfect alternative to the ring method (this assumes that the protection is via an MCB/RCBO etc and that there are no other correction factors...

The motor calc seems right, but my calcs for the T/E put its effective current rating at approx 10.5 Amps due to the thermal insulation Scott

How on earth did you find that little gem!! :D

What designa ones, where? How much? Where you getting them from (not eBay Hong Kong i hope!!) Need a bit more than that :roll:

On the contrary Chri5, the IEE guide to the building regs (to name but one point of reference) standardises the cooker circuits at 32A now, i guess for the very reasons you've highlighted. 32A accessories are readily available. See the following page...

Tony1, If you want to add a pic you need to host it first on the net (I use Imageshack.us). It's quite straight forward. Once uploaded, the service gives you a line of html text that you need to cut and paste into your post on DIYnot.com. Hover over the img button when writing a post and...