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Sorry I have just gone over the post and I thought that you were saying that in your previous post :oops:

So your telling me that plaster on plaster board is a better substrate than tiling just to plaster board?

It also weakens your substrate :?

Tiling over already exsisting tiles is not the best, you need to know that the tiles that are fixed on already are fixed well go around with a coin and tap the tiles to see if you get a hollow sound if you do I wouldnt tile over them I would rip them of. If they are fixed well I would only go...

It depends on the condition of the floor boards, if they are in good condition then you could go on with a product called fast flex BAL product 2 part rapidset flex dunlop product ( this product is the most flexible adhesive you can get it is made from crused rubber tyres and the you add a...

And this is in the British Standards? :shock: :lol: Please have a read and you will find that scoring the wall at 50mm centres is to british standards. Like I said please if any one wants to question my work take a read of them you all might learn something. :evil:

All I will say is I carry out my work to british standards, if you want to check have a look everything I say and do is to the word.So people can say what they want about me but why am I the bad one.I know when I leave a job its all top notch can every tiler on here say the same. It is a...

It depends on what sort of tile how big natural/ceramic?

And how much adhesive do you use on block work twicw as much sand and cemnt can cause crazing on tiles as it sucks too much water out of your adhesive, I just find plaster board flatter smoother and quicker to put up.

If you are worried about safe weights the substrate that can take the most weightis the wedi board or hardi backer board.

Far walls I find the best substrate to be plasterboard cheap easy to fix then tank it before you tile it.

Nails are not as good as screws as they will come loose over time with the more traffic that goes over.

Yes they are the same company.

Tiled my conservatorie a couple of months ago, half way through my mate chipped one of the tiles we had laid the night before. I was in exactly the same situation I had laid my underfloor heating caples on top of some insulation board then put BALS acrybase as a leveller, that was my only saving...

Got a bit of info for all you people who are about to or are doing a shower. http://www.bal-adhesives.co.uk/dunlop07/downloads/HowtoGuides/SHOWERS.pdf :lol:

I did a fireplace not long ago and I used BAL rapiset flex, if you are unsure do what I do sing BAL's tech line 01782 591120.

One way to do it but expensive is to get BAL fast flex or dunlop 2 part rapid set flex and level the area you need or the other way is to ply line the floor.

As said in post before only 1 grout that is waterproof and that is epoxy you can only get it in white ivory and grey. That is the only way you can stop the water from getting through. It dosnt matter if you have tiled it right put enough groout in the joints and got enough ventilation water will...

It sounds like this bloke dosnt know what he is taliking about but hey I am only here to offer advice as I always tile to british standards. You should ask him about PVA and show him how easy it is to peal of your hands once it has dried, remember you are now tiling to PVA not your original...