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cutting the plinths to size as GHFlooring says works well - i do same wherever i can.

final thought - if you’re not over painting don't make the scratch on the 1st coat too deep - just a light scratch otherwise it's visible through the 2nd coat

thanks TTC for the extra clarification. best wishes

TTC, nice & interesting doc. pleased it's going into the on site guide. bottom corner of joist is best position - quite a surprise as you would naturally think the higher up the joist the better (ie the nearer to the cold)

it's a case of how level the quarry tiles are and what quality of job you need. i would say take out any small uneven areas (>2mm deep) with sand/cement mortar (5:1). wet the tiles with water before applying mortar. If this is not good enough then a liquid leveller will be needed (best to use...

you need an electrician to be sure (probably post needs moving). before i new anything about electrics i did the same and have had no trouble in over 10 yrs. i now know a bit more and if i am rewiring in a loft i go up a size in cable just to be sure if i'm covering with insulation ie...

i been in the same dilemma - you feel the gap being asked for is just too huge. i tend to take off the skirting whenever i can. where i can't i use 16mm wood beading (20mm in some places) stained to get a reasonably close match to the laminate. in tricky areas i just use frame filler. in...

had a couple of further thoughts you will need beading over windows - acts as a drip sill if your going to paint then not an issue but if not painting then try to complete the finish coat on one complete wall at a time otherwise it's difficult to hide the horizontal joints. if you cant...

in kitchens and bathrooms i use caulk to fill the gap and don't use beading. i would try contact adhesive or polyurethane wood glue - these tend to work when others don't

i think what you are saying is the RSJ sits on both the inner and outer leaf brickwork and effectively over the cavity. i would use polystyrene sheet on the basis that it is easier to handle/fix. roof insulation will be just as good as long as it does not drop/compress with time and uncover...

forgot to add if you use cement - wet the brickwork thoroughly (use old washing up liquid bottle of water) and dip any dry bricks in a bucket of water for typ 1 min before using. it makes sure the cement does not weaken.

30m x 3m high is a big job. if you've not rendered before it might be worth getting quotes to have it done for you. Your arms will be hanging off. if you do go for it you will need a cement mixer and a platform to access the top sections. i would do it in 3 off 1 metre strips starting at...

quite an unusual arrangement which must have been as is since built. the mods have simply damaged the old/loose brickwork and not been put back. it looks from pic that brickwork between the joists is unbroken ie supporting by passing through the floor and providing support to the wall. i...

a friend had a nightmare which always sticks in my mind - make sure any paths or parts of the surrounding garden don't fall towards the new build - particularly the door. i know it's common sense but his feet got wet for quite a while.

i find i rip out a lot of "individual" fireplaces. i never seem to get near the plain ones - i think because people stay happy with them for longer. in terms of regulations i've done a couple of recent posts which would help //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=140191 the key...

good advice by chessspy - i particularly like avoiding render if u can - bricks are for seeing in terms of bonding i use PVA diluted 2:1 water:PVA

i mainly render inside (for damp proofing). outside i've done mainly garden walls and a bay window. on the outside i use bonding on the 1st coat only applying a light strake to key the 2nd coat. both are at 6mm. i use 3:1 for 1st coat and 4:1 for 2nd coat (i believe you can use 4:1 for both...

the dpc must be at least 150mm above the ground level (2 courses) and should match/be level with the ht of the internal floor. under these circumstances the dpc is normally under the 1st course.

theirs a lot to take in from your post so i outline what should exist. any ground flooring needs an air void. any upstairs flooring does not. any chimney being used by a gas fire needs a "gas" cowl at the top of the chimney stack. any chimney not being used needs capping ideally with a...

the idea sounds fine - i can't see any problems. i do sort of part of the job now and again when i'm not wanting to use an existing brick fireplace - the only difference being i make the hole a feature as opposed to putting a fire in. i use blockwork to raise the height. i then plaster...