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Unfortunately my shed sits in a recess so cant feed wood in. There seems to be a lot of claims regarding power of motors for portable saws but unfortunately most dont live up to them. I think the last lot of timber I cut was too wet which has probably overloaded the motor. I suppose if I am...

Yep, but not too light. As long as I can get it out of my workshop for longer lengths. My metabo ts250 has just conked out, comutator broke up, quoted over £300 to replace motor so I know what you mean. Obviously I wont be going down that route which is a pity as it was a good machine re accuracy.

Howdy, I am interested in a second hand metabo kgt 501 flipover saw. Does anyone have experience of this machine who could tell me how good the parallel fence is when its in table saw mode. To me this is one of the most important aspects of a table saw.

Thanks for all the help.

yep, the rebates are 45mm deep, purpose made for dg.

Hi, Have purchased several Magnet wood windows, all pre finished with the intension of glazing myself. I've got the units but am not 100% clear on the fitting. I realise that there should be packers under each unit and they should fit centrally in the frame but what about the actual...

Cheers, thanks for all the info

The original house is sand and cement rendered. the render on the bottom half of the extension has to match. The top half will be timber clad. I like the idea of cement board behind the mesh but there may be issues with adhesion as has been pointed out. By the way, what thickness is the cement...

Howdy, anybody know of an additive that can be added to cement render to give flexibility?

See where youre coming from but would the render still be able to breathe?

I have built a two storey timber frame extension, the bottom half of which is to be rendered to match the rest of the house. The frame is sheathed and has building paper attached. To this I will be putting 2" x 1" battens vertically, then breatheable building paper, then stainless steel mesh...

I am at present constructing a two storey extension, the bottom half of which will be rendered. 2"x1" battens will be fixed vertically to the sheathing, then breathable paper and finally stainless steel mesh. Any advice regarding the correct type of render to use would be appreciated, bearing...

thanks for the info, reckon the problem has been solved !

Thanks chippy5, that sounds feasible to me. Even if I squeeze them slightly further in from the battens, I guess I could lead the top as you say and put a lead tray under the sill too. Thinking about it, maybe wrap building paper round the reveals to the sides of the windows and into the tray...

Thanks for the info re cladding material. My next problem is the weathering of the windows. The boards will be nailed to 2" x 1" counter battened to the frame, this leaves a stand off of 3" including the cladding. The windows are standard Magnet casement 70mm thick with the sill projecting...

I am currently building a two storey timber frame extention, the top half of which is to be clad in western red cedar. I have decided not to use shiplap but featheredge instead. What I would like to know is there any benefit in rebated edge on the boards. By not having a rebate, I can adjust...

Good sites, missus says no excuse now, get cracking! Cheers.

Thanks squose, thats the info i've been after

Looks like somebody else is having fun in this neck of the woods. Can't believe the hassle trying to get planning perm for a simple extension. Obviously I didn't appreciate the "world heritage" status and all the rest of the bull that goes with it. Wonder if those cowboys used to trade as...

Hi woody, sorry for the confusion, what I meant was I need to know the optimum sections of timber to use for the sides, tops, mullions, transoms etc., in order to keep the correct proportions.