timber cladding

[ranger]

I am currently building a two storey timber frame extention, the top half of which is to be clad in western red cedar. I have decided not to use shiplap but featheredge instead. What I would like to know is there any benefit in rebated edge on the boards.
By not having a rebate, I can adjust the boards slightly to line up with window heads and sills but I wonder about weather tightness.

 

[big-all]

dont skimp its not worth it
my shed has 5" pressure treated t&g ship lap as its the right material fo longevity
http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b270/bigall2005/?action=view&current=e1e47346.pbw

 

[chippy5]

As long as you have a good lap on the boards at least an inch and when you fix them you don't fix through the top of board underneath there is nothing wrong with featheredge it has been tried and tested over hundreds of years

 

[Deluks]

A handful of Americans, Canadians and Australians live in featheredge clad houses.
Just be sure to buy decent stuff from a proper timber supplier, you'll get better quality in longer lengths. 6 to 7 " wide boards will go up quicker than piddly 4" Be sure to use stainless ring shank nails, worth the extra dosh for a habitable building.

 

[ranger]

Thanks for the info re cladding material. My next problem is the weathering of the windows. The boards will be nailed to 2" x 1" counter battened to the frame, this leaves a stand off of 3" including the cladding.
The windows are standard Magnet casement 70mm thick with the sill projecting another 70mm.
It seems that I wont be able to fix the windows their full 70mm thickness to the frame as there will be no overhang on the sill . This seems to create a weathering problem which I'm not sure how to overcome.
I asked the building inspector for his opinion but he wasn't sure. There must be a tried and tested method here rather than squeezing tubes of mastic around and hoping for the best !!

 

[chippy5]

in the past i've set the windows flush with the battens then run an inch wide board up the side of the window which comes out enough to cover the end of the boarding. i angle the tops and run a head over the window (which can be covered with lead). had you know about this problem early on you can get windows with extended cills.

 

[ranger]

Thanks chippy5, that sounds feasible to me. Even if I squeeze them slightly further in from the battens, I guess I could lead the top as you say and put a lead tray under the sill too. Thinking about it, maybe wrap building paper round the reveals to the sides of the windows and into the tray. That should do the trick nicely.

 

[JohnD]

I have some sash windows set into a slate-hung wall. The sills hardly project at all, but they have lead underneath dressed down the face of the wall. There hardwood cheeks at the sides and felt behind the slate battens so it is all pretty weathertight.

I hadn't given it much thought until I read your post.

As the slates and the patinated lead are both dark grey it is not obtrusive.

 

[ranger]

thanks for the info, reckon the problem has been solved !