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I would suspect that you had either a blocked cold feed or a duff valve in your header tank. Check the header tank to see if it's full, if not replace the valve. If it is and if your pump is on the flow side, together with the cold feed and open vent, try this:- Turn all power off, isolate...

what specifically do you want advice on? hanging radiators, running the non gas pipework etc is easily within the scope of any DIY'er. Also, as far as I am aware, it does not take any special skill to core a hole, the trick is making sure you know where the hole will appear on the other side of...

Does the boiler fire up? is the motorised valve working?

An isolating valve is fine if you don't want to fit a brass stop tap. You can buy a bib tap that incorporates a double check valve.

Try using gas tape instead of the usual PTFE. This is much thicker and easier to handle - well it works for me anyway. Luckily this is one of the few items containing the word gas that you don't need to be Corgi registered for, or get planning permission to use it!

If you can, use 15mm. You will find the combi responds to changes quicker that way. The pressure will also be higher, obviously.

As I said, the gas transporter lays the supply. You are their customer forever, regardless of the supplier, so why would they do it for nothing? there is no competition.

The process is that you contact the gas transporter - Transco. They will come around and do a survey. This will be based on the distance from the nearest supply they can connect you to after digging up roads, pavements etc etc. They will give you an estimate but do not be surprised if the final...

If you don't have a motorised valve capable of either (a) allowing the central heasting to work or (b) switching between HW and CH or both, then you may have a manual valve (summer valve) somewhere - normally in the airing cupboard. Try and locate this and see if it works. If it doesn't just...

If you don't want to get "fleeced", descale it yourself. If on the other hand you use a heating engineer to fix it for you, he or she may drag out their £1000 bit of kit and then the unreasonable s*d may expect you to make a contribution to its cost. Rotten s*d that he is.

Why shouldn't you put it on the first floor? the pump will be doing the exact same job as if it were on the ground floor - it's only circulating water. You could get away with installing it in the loft if you fancied it. A class "C" boiler, which your new combi will almost certainly be, can...

Bleed some water out of a radiator until pressure relieved to whatever you want.

Is there power going to the boiler (valve)?

You could try the following:- (1) Take a look in your airing cupboard and see if there are any bleed valves in the supply pipework to the hot water cylinder. If you can find any, try loosening them and see if any air escapes. (2) Whilst you are there, close off the pump valves and remove...

Your boiler needs a new thermocouple, removing the rads, refilling and re-pressurising will have had no effect on it. The part costs about a fiver, but a heating engineer will charge £55-£65 to supply & fit - well at least I would.

(1) No, assuming it is not a combi boiler. (2) No

*choke* what's this? a registered corgi engineer letting on that a mind numbingly easy task does NOT need a 10 year apprenticeship to achive safely???? Have you checked the corgi disclosure rule 143.24 / 127b?

Virtually all gas meters use the flexible anaconda type fitting on the domestic side. This is immensely strong and is not made of copper. I wasn't aware that you couldn't use one of the corrugated copper pipes to fit a gas hob but then again I have never needed to as it is simple enough to form...