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Just to update this, all rad valves fitted, W plan completed with magnaclean (which has already collected a load of ****) heating woks better than ever now it is separated from the cylinder, hot water lasts longer with the pressure set to 2.1 bar I’ll see what my gas usage is in a few months...

there are a few cracks but not like the size underneath. A bit of freeze/thaw action will soon sort that out! just looking at some old pictures there seems to be no damage before the window was fitted then a little bit after and now has got a lot worse. I wonder if they cracked it during...

yep it needs replacing. The cracks don’t go all the way through. I have seen the water a couple bricks up from the sill? windows we’re installed 2 years ago, no cracks before with the old rotten wooden items. Could the installers have damaged the sill?

It dries up quickly when it stops raining also!

Hi, yes there is a rad under the window. Inside the house is completely dry. The feed / expansion tank is not filling up so don’t think it’s a leak.

Hello all, seem to have water on the bricks. I’m thinking it’s leaking into the cavity and then finding it’s way out? Could be wrong! thanks in advance

Rad stats have arrived now with bottles of inhibitor too so can at least sort that now. The 3 port valve has arrived but it is a 3 wire not 5 so is for a w plan. I may go for this as it will give priority to keeping the thermal store topped up and it is a 15kw boiler that struggles when hw and...

I've just checked the mains water pressure and its a touch under 4 bar. would it be best to add PRV to the DHW pipe after the mixer valve and set to 3 bar? need to buy a thermometer and check the temp also. whats a good brand of thermostatic rad valves? are there any to avoid? Thanks!

thanks, have you got your rads separated from the store out of interest? Ive been looking at some instructions / manuals and they recommend 170 litres for 1 bath/2 showers but don’t mention the heating of rads? couple of things I need to check, the mixer valve is giving hot water at 55 deg and...

Just checked the pipes either side of the CH pump and they are hot, could I be getting a bit of gravity circulation? Rads are all cold. Wondering if I split the radiator circuit off will I need to add another vent / overflow pipe to the f&e tank? I would connect the rad circuit return to the...

Boiler is the potterton 50e 14.65kw max Pics below of the setup. I’m thinking of splitting the radiators into a y plan to separate from the cylinder and also putting thermostatic rad valves on all radiators at the same time. Will also put some sort of inline filter somewhere. I could upgrade...

Thanks for your input Gents. I’ll put a picture up of the cylinder tomorrow. It looks more like a standard cylinder with a couple more connections than a proper thermal store. Will look at the boiler specs and post them up too but I’m inclined to keep it until it fails and is unserviceable...

Hi Gents, currently using just over 30,000Kwh of gas a year for hot water and central heating in a detached 4 bed that is well insulated and a 1990 build. Need to reduce usage if possible as seems a bit excessive.(cooking is electric) The gas boiler feeds a vented thermal store tank in...

Prob been asked before but: The soil stack is ventilated through the loft space and into a tile vent on the roof Can I cut the pipe in the loft space and fit a durgo, then use the tile vent to connect bathroom fans too ( family bathroom and en-suite? Cheers!

the system is working fine, but noticed when the central heating has been on and off, the 3 port valve holds the last position and the valve head becomes very hot even when the pipes have cooled down, also when you operate the manual lever it does not spring back, the valve just holds the...

Just testing the voltages and i'm getting 240v on the common wire when programmer calls for heat, but getting 180v on 1 and 240v on 2? when I turn the stat down I get 40v on 2 (backfeed from valve?) and 240v on 1? Is this normal or a duff stat? would of thought it would just switch from...

well I can't get 100v out of orange wire! only get 240v when ch or hw is on. when hw is called for the programmer is sending 240v to the on wire and 178v to the off wire! new programmer needed methinks. closer inspection it seems the valve is vibrating/humming, not the pump! can't be...

looking at the reference guide for the 3 port valve, when the last position was ch, the orange wire will have 100v on it, which connects to the boiler and pump live. Pump should not be running with 100v, but I can feel the pump vibrating slightly! going to check the voltage on orange...

just noticed when the programmer switches off the ch, the pump seems to keep running at a slow speed! I have double checked the wiring. When i switch off at the fcu and back on again the valve returns to orriginal position and the pump stops. Must be a dodgy programmer microswitch? Thanks

Hi I have just plumbed/wired a 3 port valve y plan system with st9400c programmer and wireless stat. With the hw and ch off on the programmer, moving the manual lever on the valve all the way seems to run the pump. Is this correct? thanks!