1/4" crack has appeared on the outside wall

[aki69]

Hi all. I have a crack appearing (1/4") in my wall (2 1/2 feet tall), just above the drain. I pointed it up not so long ago, however, the plaster has just simply cracked again.
To stop/slow this process down, I was going to chip out some mortar quite near the base of the house and the ground, and push in a steel plate (approx 3" width and 2 1/2 feet long). The plate should be adequate to cover the visual roots of the crack ( i.e the parts of the crack that I can see). I was just going to point it up after.

Is this process advisable. As You can guess i'm not a builder, more of a imaginative diyer/botcher!!!!lol

Pls can somebody advise me if its safe or not. Nice one

 

[Static]

Maybe check the obvious first.. the crack is above a drain.. check if the drain is burst.
Putting a plate in will just mean the crack will appear around the plated area and thus you may end up with 3 or so cracks

 

[aki69]

I was going to check that but it seemed like a difficult job, smashing the concerete around the drain.

You have to admit the plate idea was quite a good one that i dreamed up!

 

[WabbitPoo]

Again, I am no builder, but you really have to ascertain the root cause of the prolem b4 fixing it, or its likely that it'll keep appearing. You could pay a drain camera company to come take a look (make sure you get to see the camera footage live) to see if the drain is buggered.

Is the building of great age? Mine is 200 yrs old or so and has no footings. Cracking in the wall can happen quite easily here, esp with the dry summers.

 

[Static]

Hehe,

Hate to burst your bubble but the plate idea isn't that great, firstly it will need to be galvanised or stainless steel, i would recommend stainless.
A stainless plate of the size youll need will be expensive so let me suggest something smaller i.e a bar or maybe 2 bars inline.. you could even give them a ridged side and twist them so they grip the mortar better. Do a google search for brick stitching or helifix, course would be what i would recommend to do once you remove the underlying problem causing the crack so you where on the right lines

 

[aki69]

I really appreciate it.

The house was built in the 40/50's, so its not that old really.
Camera idea is a good suggestion, i may give that greater thought after counting my pennies!

The plate idea was an alternative to adding mechanical wall ties. Ties do seem the best option, but they require all different type of crazy wrenches which I do not have in my possession. They are also difficult to hire also.

 

[Static]

Helixical bars are relatively easy to fix in small numbers. Basically you rake part of a mortar course about 1m each side of the crack (can use hand tools or a disc cutter), put in a mortar bed and push the bar into place, then repoint the rest.. do it every 3-4th course up the crack.
Or get out one of their recommended "experts" to do the job and give a guarantee. http://sweets.construction.com/mfg/6325/P32859.htm
Course cure the source first then the crack.

 

[milkman]

We've just come out of the other end of a subsidence claim and its a b____d not least cos you can't get anyone to insure you.
Aaaaaanyhoo definately get the drain checked and also look at any nearby trees either standing or recently removed. The other posters are right when they say you need to identify the cause before repairing the symptom. It will cost you money but so will not being able to sell a badly repaired/subsided house.
Watch it though as you are under obligation to report subsidence damage to your insurer and it can hit the fan if its found out you haven't.

Finally we had helibars put in and they used expoxy to bed them in with mortar over that just near the surface; 1m either side of the crack every 3-4 course, as already mentioned. I think the expoxy provides flexiblilty on top of the helibar's strength.