1-way or 2-way??

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Hi Guys
Ive recently bought my first house and tried wiring up one of these PLC ultimate electronic dimmers from B&Q.

Ive read through the other posts regarding problems.

It seems that the existing rocker switch has 4 wires.

Black - 240v
Red - 0v
Red - 40v
Earth

It sounds like its actually a 2-way circuit but I have no other light switches in the room.
Have I got this wrong or do you think that maybe a light switch has been covered up or something. It looks like they may have moved a wall back at some time but not totally sure.

from other threads it seems that I will need to replace the other switch with a retractive one. But like metioned I dont have one.

Therefore is there still a way away I can wire this dimmer up?
Thanks
Alex
 
How were the wires connected to the current switch? It could be that you have a loop in and loop out 'live' feed and a switch return to the light!
 
Black - Common
Red - L1
Red - L2

Im not sure which red went to which L* tho

New switch has
~
L
Sw
 
If this is a 2-way lighting system (even if the second switch has been hidden/connected out) then you may not be able to use that type of dimmer. All of the switches in a 2-way circuit need to be changed with that type of dimmer.

Read the instructions:
http://www.getplc.com/Folders/connect\electronic & infrared dimmers.pdf

But try this.

DO NOT CONNECT ANYTHING TO THE SW TERMINAL

Connect black to the ~

Connect one of the reds to the L. see if it works.
if not
try the other red connected to the L.

if it works, insulate the unused red and count yourself lucky.

if it does not work then you need to get one of the more boring rotary & press dimmers.
 
Thanks Taylortwocities

I just tried this and it seems to work :)

So is it perfectly safe to simply leave this live Red wire terminated then?

Also does this mean I have a live loop system?


Now just have to get some dimable energy saving bulbs. The miss's bought normal ones and they flicker lol
 
It is safe as long as the spare red is terminated in (for instance) a picec of terminal block.

If your switch is metal you must earth the face plate.

You probably have a loop-in system. It depends on how the light fitting is wired.

PLEASE READ THE BL***Y INSTRUCTIONS!!

On that link I sent you there is a whole page that is headed
CIRCUIT, LAMP AND OTHER EQUIPMENT
COMPATIBILITY


Under lamps it says:

Do NOT use with Compact Fluorescent Lamps (CFL)
even if marked ‘dimmable’, Fluorescent lamps and
Light Emitting Diode (LED) lamps of any description
or motor loads.

So buying dimmerable lamps is not going to help. :roll: :roll:
What, exactly are you trying to dim?

If it flickers then you may have too much load, or not enough load.
The instructions clearly tell you what the dimmer can handle. It is too late to type it all out for you. Just read the instructions and see if that dimmer can do it.
 
I did read the instructions.
I just didnt reealise CFL lamps were energy saving ones.

On the load front. I believe the switch is rated to 300W and I have 5x11W CFL bulbs. (40W equivalent bulbs)

On the ceiling light I have:-
2xBlack Neutral - (linked to lights negative)
2xRed Live (linked together on bus bar)
1or 2 live (cant quite remember now) linked to the lights positive side.


Thanks Again
Alex
 
On the load front. I believe the switch is rated to 300W and I have 5x11W CFL bulbs. (40W equivalent bulbs)
Can't use them though.


On the ceiling light I have:-
2xBlack Neutral - (linked to lights negative)
2xRed Live (linked together on bus bar)
1or 2 live (cant quite remember now) linked to the lights positive side.
So the lighting loop does not run through the swithches.

http://www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:lighting
 
Yeah I now know I cant use CFL bulbs.

I forgot to say the 2 live I actually mena were red too.

So Im not sure if from that it does run back to the switch or not.

Ive had a look at the diagram you just sent. I think mine is actually a rose system.
 

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