1930 tiled roof - fascia & venting repairs

[Renevator59]

Hi


I'm looking for advice (as there's a lot of good advice here) on how to tackle the fascia & tile verge on this 1930 clay tiled roof.

Photos

I'm having the walls rendered (MR1 Ecorend).
I was intending to replace the rotten fascia board with new timber board & PVC capping board. Though I'm having trouble finding treated timber board of 1" x 7", which is what's currently there.
The fascia board appears to be supporting the edge of the tiles.
There's no felt
The side elevation just has a thin 1/2" board under the tiles, and across to hold the gutter.

One main question is do I have to plan for ventilation of that roof space? It's plasterboard inside, with kitchen/diner below connected to whole house. Does the lack of felt imply the natural spaces between tiles affords enough ventilation?? so the front & side of tiled roof don't need venting?

For the front fascia
If needed, can I add over fascia vent to the new timber board, put that in place to support the tiles as before, then add the capping board onto that.
Over fascia vent

Should I also add in a strip of felt (or eaves felt support) to direct water into the gutter. The tiles don't lift out easily (looks like they are mortared in place) so it's not that easy to lift the first 2 rows to make it easier.

For the side verge
I'd like to have the whole face rendered, right up to the barge board (looks neater), but there's very little tile overhang (about 25-30mm). If I replace that thin 1/2" barge board with 1" timber & 9mm capping board, that would result in almost zero tile overhang - and the render would probably end up flush with the face edge of the capping board too, as the wall is quite irregular and the plasterer might need to thicken the render out to make a good flat finish.
Also, what do I do about the small triangular gaps between the barge board & tiles. If left open as it was built, doesn't that allow rain in? Or is that part of the roof venting, and intentional?
Maybe I should rebuild as per orig layout with a horiz timber where the gutter sits, keeping the render below gutterline (though I was hoping to branch the downpipe into the existing house roof downpipe, instead of having 2 downpipes together.

If anyone can advise without me stripping the roof & rebuilding with felt, battens & tiles, that be much appreciated.

Thanks

Rene

 

[jj4091]

I would fit gutter trays at the front and just replace the broken section of facia board before fitting the plastic facia. Then I would use dry verges on the slope that could be rendered up to. As far as the downspouts are concerned I would do away with the hopper and join the other downspout and waste pipe into it with suitable junctions like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/28478633...X34Yu96h8Gus91ch1xrxuBOEt8N8_JLQaAsaBEALw_wcB
Not sure how you would ventilate or even need to as you don't have any soffit.

 

[Renevator59]

I would fit gutter trays at the front and just replace the broken section of facia board before fitting the plastic facia. Then I would use dry verges on the slope that could be rendered up to. As far as the downspouts are concerned I would do away with the hopper and join the other downspout and waste pipe into it with suitable junctions like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/28478633...X34Yu96h8Gus91ch1xrxuBOEt8N8_JLQaAsaBEALw_wcB
Not sure how you would ventilate or even need to as you don't have any soffit.

Thanks for this - I didn't think about fitting a dry verge to the edges, that solves a whole load of problems. Yes, defo agree on the downpipe join, that was my ideal solution too.
Cheers