Timber fascia/soffit details

11 Oct 2006
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United Kingdom
I need a little help with the details for installing timber fascias and soffits with boxed eaves for a garage rebuild.

Firstly, I don't want uPVC fascias and soffits as they need to match the property.

I have 25mm PAR timber fascias which I will route a 9mm groove to take one side of the 9mm WBP ply with a 25mm x 25mm batten attached to the wall to take the other side.

I have masonry nails to attach the battens to the walls, screws to attach the fascias to the rafter ends and nails to attache the soffits to the battens.

The fascias will be raised 20-25mm to raise the soakers.

The barge boards will be cut top and bottom 30 degrees to match the pitch of the roof with the verge tiles bedded onto a 150mm undercloak with a 25mm overhang.

The questions about the details are:

* Are the fascia boards OK to be butt jointed along the length? (Half of each board end fixed over a rafter)

* Should the fascia boards be mitered on the returns or is butt jointing still OK?

* The box details are confusing me with how they're all attached. I can make a triangular section top and bottom of the barge board (for the lifted tiles and the bottom to match the soffit returns from the fascias) but how's best to fix these?

* The bottom triangular section box end will have to be grooved to accept the soffit. Should the soffit be mitered with the soffit from the fascia? Do these joins need filling?

I've seen the details for uPVC and the box ends are quite large over the entire bottom section of the barge board (which stops short compared to timber) and all the joints seemed to be covered with silicone adhesive.

Sorry if I haven't explained this clearly enough.

If someone can point me to some detailed drawing of the boxed eaves and fixing methods or a good roofing book (with plenty of pictures!) then I'd be most grateful.
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Butt join the fascias - yes but put a nogging on the side of the rafter foot to give larger area for fixing - prime all wood all round and cut ends :!: On the returns you butt and have the return protruding by 3to5 mm - that way you can seal/paint the exposed end grain :idea: ( I`ve got mitred ones here and it`s a moisture magnet :cry: ) PVC joints covered with silicone - that`s par for the course :rolleyes: . Can`t help further , but try googling traditional cut roof - barge - ladder frame :idea:

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