2 Way Stair Switching with two lights

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Good Afternoon all, Got a bit of a question or two here regarding 2 Way switching of two lights on two floors which I hope someone can clarify.

Background:
Starting with a bit of background to the story, Had a new bathroom put in back in 2019, as part of this the Consumer Unit was swapped out for a (at the time 17th Ed) unit with RCD Protection etc. This was done by a subcontractor from the bathroom fitter/supplier. The old unit was a rewireable fuse Wylex unit.

Originally I believe both upstairs and downstairs circuits were on the same fuse, when the new board was installed I recall the guy splitting it into two, once per RCD. this was fine until he tried to use the 2 way switches on the stairs (yes I can hear you all screaming borrowed Neutral, and yes we will come to that). Anyway his solution was to just put both circuits on separate MCBs on the same RCD.

So up until now everything has worked fine, no issues but ive always had a niggle at the back of my head that something was bodged here (to be honest, the whole bathroom has been a fiasco, constant leaks, supplier saying nothing wrong with it, yet 3rd party builders etc saying yep its a install issue) Anyway back on track. I fitted some new replacement lights in one of the rooms, this is a room with two lights, and one 2 gang switch. Removing one light i found just a single T&E so assumed it to be end of line but also thought it was odd as there was no loop to the switch. The other light in the same room had the expected 3 sets of T&E but as you find in a old house noting was labelled and no sleaving to mark the switch line so I took the time to trace the cables to see what was what and mark them up for the next guy or even myself in future. Now this is where I get some questions.

1. first light has 3 cables, as I would expect, 1. line in, 2. Line out to a light fitting under the stairs 3. switch
Now, in the 2 gang switch, one controls one light and the other the second light. so I was expecting 2 sets of T&E. one per light. but no in this case its one set which I traced back to the 1st light and is connected as expected. the second switch has a bridge wire, between the line (common) terminal on the first switch to the second Common terminal. ok so yes that technically is connected the same way as a 3 plate would be electrically but not in the light itself, however it then has a single red wire leave the L1 terminal into the wall, I assume this goes to the second light via a Junction box above the ceiling and the neutral goes back to the other light somehow probably via the same JB. Assume they are both on the same light circuit neutral too.

First question is, Is this allowed? i.e. the Single red wire off to another light bridged from the first switch?

lightswitch in room with the replaced lights.jpg

I don't see this style of wiring in any of the Regs or any guides / diagrams i found. the single wire does look to be double insulated, as it seemed to have one layer of insulation, then a second layer over the top, house is from the 60s i think and this is all the old red and back colours, does not look to be rubber cable but PVC at least.

I am tempted to try and replace the T&E from the first light to the switch if i can find a way to do so without ripping up floors etc as who ever fitted it cut the CPC off almost flush with the top of the back box and left it like that. (none of the sockets/switches etc in the house have sleaving), Ive managed to use a chockblock to attach a length of CPC to the existing one and to the metal back box and connectivity is there now to the CPC in the light and the rest of the house but think it may be better to replace the cable if possible so its done properly.
so if I'm doing that do I think i may also replace that single wire with a T&E and loop in on the second switch properly or just drop the second switch completely and connect the second light in parallel to the first on a single gang switch. both lamps are in same room, in line with each other and look to both be the same side of the joists so maybe easy to pull a cable between the two lamps that way.


This leads me onto the second question, while tracing the cables, I ended up looking at the under stairs light that the first light above loops into (or so I thought, being the next physical light in a line). Tracing this it turn out it does not go directly to that light but past it, into the lower stairs light loop and back out to the fitting under the stairs, this then has a second T&E go to a 2 Gang switch by the door and is wired as I would expect. Now the interesting bit. in this 2 gang switch there is 3 sets of T&E (again all red and black). and its connected as follows:

cable 1 - from understairs light -> 1st gang switch - seems to be wired as expected, line in and sl back out to the lamp.
cable 2 - red into L1 and black in L2, a bridge wire from the first gang live to the common, of this gang. I traced this to the 2 gang switch upstairs that also controls the stair lights.
Cable 3 - Red goes into the second Gang common and sends a line off up to "somewhere" with the black not connected at all (taped off). (ive traced this cable by lifting a floor board and it ended in a chockblock under the floor going nowhere) so disconnected the line from the switch so its dead. not yet removed it as it seems stuck in the wall.

downstairs2way.jpg dead cable from downstairs 2g switch - now not connected.jpg twistedcpc-notconnected.jpg

Right, now the second 2 gang switch upstairs has cable 2 coming into its second gang L1 and L2, with two sets of T&E coming out the common, (first gang is for the bathroom lights, comes from a junction box in the loft and is wired as expected for a loop in setup).

So question here is can two circuits be in the same switch? bathroom lights fed from upstairs circuit, two way switch from the switch below via the bridge wire. Guess its allowed as the two circuits are not electrically connected, just share the same physical switch assembly. also means safe isolation would require both upstairs and downstairs MCBs to be off.

upstairs2way.jpg

Does this require some sort of labelling? I know this is the case but say joe blogs came over and decided to swap out the switch to a nice new one and didn't know there is two separate circuits sharing the same physical switch assembly they would be in for a bit of a shock if they assumed it was all on the upstairs MCB as thats where the switch is. I know a pro would follow safe isolation procedures and confirm dead properly so this is more a question should joe bloggs do some diy.

Now back to this 2 way switching setup. as stated above. switch 1 on the ground floor has a line supplied to the Common terminal and a second cable from L1 and L2 to the same terminals on this upstairs switch. again no sleaving to identify the black is used as a strapper.
From the Common of this second switch leaves 2 sets of T&E, both with their black wire cut off! one goes back down the wall, under the floor and to the lower stairs lamp, the black is left unconnected. so this makes sense once you know where the wires go, but feel this is not best practice even for older wiring.

Is this kind of two way switching allowed? Current regs say use 3 core T&E for this, but I know its possible to use the way its wied now if it was done with single wires conduit style. should this be left this way or upgraded to the 3 core method or split back to a 1 setup? I can see why they did this as it leads on to my next question.

The second T&E with the black cut off also comes from the Common on the upstairs switch into the loft, along and into the upstairs lamp. a second T&E from here then goes to the same junction box in the loft the bathroom light are connected to. this time the red wire is cut off. you can see where this is going, so the upstairs light takes its feed via the two switches, do returns it to the neutral of the upstairs circuit. hence a shared / borrowed neurtral and why the installer had issues with the RCDs tripping. (also the guy installing the fan etc never put the cover bac on the JB, probably due to to many Cables going in to it. (6)

upstairs-rose.jpg jb wiring diagram - unknown source.jpg JB stolen neutral - bathroom lights and fan.jpg

So this needs to be addressed ASAP, now I can remove the neutral from the junction box, and run it down to the ground floor stair light via the cut off unconnected black wires with very little issue as the cable is there, just not connected at each end and just needs them to be connected together at the upstairs switch. thus putting it on the same circuit as the ground floor light and fixing the borrowed neutral issue. my question is, would that be ok to have an upstairs plysically located light on the downstairs circuit. or do i just split it back to 1 way? secondly can this sort of wire layout be allowed? unless you know how its connected it could be confusing to anyone looking at it?
 

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Lastly, these are not directly connected questions but do relate.
1. when the new CU was installed, surely the installer should have found this borrowed neutral? after all it was tripping the RCD when split, secondly the junction box this connection is made in is the same one he had connected the new bathroom lights and extractor fan to.
2. when he did the testing from the new CU and issued the certificate, surely his testing should have found this neutral too? or at the very least noticed the lack of sleaving on any of the switched wires or the fact that none of the CPCs had sleaving anywhere in the house or even better not even connected in the backboxes of switches or ceiling roses, and in these locations they were twisted together, with no other connector to ensure a good connection?
3. would he not have also found the earth boding to the water and gas pipes are not actually connected? ok so he could have visibly not seen it disconnected under the sink but a test should have found it? as for the gas meter this is in the same place as the CU well on the opersit wall in the garage, not boxed in or anything and can clearly see no earth bonding to it.

The above questions also make me wonder if the standard of work done here is as bad as the bathroom installation, after all both were subcontracted out from the same person who sold the bathroom (national chain) and therefore if the certificate I have is even valid or worth the paper its printed on. Hell even the new downlights that were installed in the bathroom have no cover on the top and the loft insulation was left on the top of them ! no fire or heat sheild.

Thanks in advance for anyone answering my questions and sorry for the massive all of text.

Happy to supply photos of the switches etc if that helps to clarify my explanations above etc.
 
I have a switch plate using three independent supplies, two RCBO's feed the plate, plus one extra low voltage. but you can't have a switch from two independent circuits.

Circuit. An assembly of electrical equipment supplied from the same origin and protected against overcurrent by the same protective device(s).

two-way-real-borrowed-neutral.jpg
As you say, borrowed neutral, which for clear safety reasons is not permitted, if RCBO's were fitted it would trip, but in real terms it is a borrowed line.

There are more problems than simple tripping, you have an aerial which will interfere with some hearing aids.

However today we have kinetic switches, so easy enough to cure, but they do cost around £60.

Yes you could call him back to correct his errors, that is also easy enough, revert to having one lighting circuit, why he wanted to split into two I don't know. Today with LED bulbs highly unlikely there would be an overload.

The regulations allow up to 16 amp for a lighting circuit using B15. B22. E14. E27 or E40 lampholders, however if some thing is rated at 6 amp, for example a ceiling rose, then limited to 6 amp unless there is some other fuse, bulbs should contain a fuse so although a B22 bulb holder is rated at 2 amp, the fuse built into the fuse covers that.

I have opened a G9 bulb LED type, and did not find a fuse, however in real terms I know it is unlikely to cause a problem, it was the ionisation of the gas inside a tungsten bulb which was the problem, the bright flash as it failed, so no real need for a fuse in the bulbs used today.

But OK you know the installer was naughty, however when I came to sell my mother house, I to start with could not find the completion and compliant certificates, so applied to the council for replacements, only to be told it would take 4 months, and I would need to pay however long it took the council worker to find them.

So the real question is what can you do about it? You can return to the shop and say the work done does not comply come back and fix it, if they say sorry yes we will, then great, but it not, the next is trading standards, we have seen Pembrokeshire trading standards v Mark Cummins with a successful court case for an EICR so seems they will fight the case if your a council worker, but you would need some one of standing to write a report saying what was wrong.

This has always been a problem, if one electrician says its OK and another says its non compliant, then it comes down to the letters behind the name of the electrician. So if Doctor x says no good and Professor y says it's OK, then the court is more likely to take the Professor's report.

As do you really want to pay for Professor y?

So the question is not if it is wrong, but is it worth taking it to court. Remember BS 7671 is not law, but can be used in a court of law, so what you need to prove is that the borrowed neutral is dangerous.

I will admit I only read part of your report, it was too long to read it all, I also tend to ramble on. So what do you want to happen?
 
I have a switch plate using three independent supplies, two RCBO's feed the plate, plus one extra low voltage. but you can't have a switch from two independent circuits.



View attachment 291859As you say, borrowed neutral, which for clear safety reasons is not permitted, if RCBO's were fitted it would trip, but in real terms it is a borrowed line.

There are more problems than simple tripping, you have an aerial which will interfere with some hearing aids.

However today we have kinetic switches, so easy enough to cure, but they do cost around £60.

Yes you could call him back to correct his errors, that is also easy enough, revert to having one lighting circuit, why he wanted to split into two I don't know. Today with LED bulbs highly unlikely there would be an overload.

The regulations allow up to 16 amp for a lighting circuit using B15. B22. E14. E27 or E40 lampholders, however if some thing is rated at 6 amp, for example a ceiling rose, then limited to 6 amp unless there is some other fuse, bulbs should contain a fuse so although a B22 bulb holder is rated at 2 amp, the fuse built into the fuse covers that.

I have opened a G9 bulb LED type, and did not find a fuse, however in real terms I know it is unlikely to cause a problem, it was the ionisation of the gas inside a tungsten bulb which was the problem, the bright flash as it failed, so no real need for a fuse in the bulbs used today.

But OK you know the installer was naughty, however when I came to sell my mother house, I to start with could not find the completion and compliant certificates, so applied to the council for replacements, only to be told it would take 4 months, and I would need to pay however long it took the council worker to find them.

So the real question is what can you do about it? You can return to the shop and say the work done does not comply come back and fix it, if they say sorry yes we will, then great, but it not, the next is trading standards, we have seen Pembrokeshire trading standards v Mark Cummins with a successful court case for an EICR so seems they will fight the case if your a council worker, but you would need some one of standing to write a report saying what was wrong.

This has always been a problem, if one electrician says its OK and another says its non compliant, then it comes down to the letters behind the name of the electrician. So if Doctor x says no good and Professor y says it's OK, then the court is more likely to take the Professor's report.

As do you really want to pay for Professor y?

So the question is not if it is wrong, but is it worth taking it to court. Remember BS 7671 is not law, but can be used in a court of law, so what you need to prove is that the borrowed neutral is dangerous.

I will admit I only read part of your report, it was too long to read it all, I also tend to ramble on. So what do you want to happen?
Thanks for the response, its appreciated and did answer some of my questions. As for getting them back to fix it that's unlikely as I'm currently perusing issues with the bathroom install with the supplier at the moment and getting nowhere and has since gone to the ombudsman.

I was mostly asking for the advise here just in case i needed to sort this out myself.
 
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As an electrician it is rare for me to ask some other person to fix an electrical fault, and also hard to work out some one else's ability, from what you say it seems you have a reasonable grasp of electrics.

With RCD protection it is rare for there to be dangerous problems, however although water ingress etc, likely the RCD will trip before you touch things, 40 mS is still a long time to have an electric shock for.

Two way switching is today less of an issue with electronic switches, but really only you can decide best option.
 
As an electrician it is rare for me to ask some other person to fix an electrical fault, and also hard to work out some one else's ability, from what you say it seems you have a reasonable grasp of electrics.

With RCD protection it is rare for there to be dangerous problems, however although water ingress etc, likely the RCD will trip before you touch things, 40 mS is still a long time to have an electric shock for.

Two way switching is today less of an issue with electronic switches, but really only you can decide best option.
Thanks I'll take that as a compliment, I do believe I have a good grasp of electrics, I did study electrical servicing and electrical engineering when I was at college years ago. So remember a lot from back then including the wiring regs, and several days in the workshop working up all the separate house circuits, testing them etc. Although back then it was pre 2004 so the old wire colours pre harmonisation. Don't think the basic theory has changed much just what you can and can't do per the regs.
 

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