3 Port Valves and sludge

Joined
12 Jan 2013
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Location
Surrey
Country
United Kingdom
Having probs with 3 port valve, was ceased freed it up, actuator now replaced (assumed synchromous motor burnt out)

know that actuator moves OK when not connected,

sure valve is OK still moves freely but rads will not come on fully downstairs

not convinced I have fitted actuator correctly (wiring OK no probs with that) as I cannot work out what position the valve needs to be in to fit it.
Tried to follow instructions found on the internet but they assume you know where the valve was when it failed.

I am a little confused as to what is the issue is here,is it sludge or the valve position or something else?

I am wondering now could it be the CH thermostat not calling for heat?
sure I can hear the click as it makes the circuit, same with HW thermostat

I can turn on the system on manually with valve in what I have now gleaned is mid position

But this results in overheating the HW and hot rads upstairs and cool ones downstairs, pump seems to be running OK

Boiler is Worcester Bosch greenstar 18 RI (fitted april 2009)
open system
3 port valve tower val 322mp

My gas engineer has refused to help me as he now thinks I am a smart ass because I made the mistake of asking could one replace the synchnous motor only (which I know I could have) when it came down to it,I replaced the whole thing to be on the safe side.

So in the season of good will I had not a lot nor any heat!

any tips would be most appreciated
 
I am having to post a reply to my own question

If only to help others out there with similar problems.

From day one I said to my Gas Engineer I am sure the valves is broken itself and was told I did not know what I was talking about and that knowledge is a dangerous thing.

It works out I was right all along, Customer 1 Gas Engineer 0

The valve was broken and the actuator head (sychronous motor burnt out)

Whilst tweaking the valve it finally came off in my hand and water seeped out.

It should not spin around 360 degrees but move no more than 30-40 degrees either way which is what led me to think it was broken in the first place.

With a bit of quick thinking I stuffed it back in again and trussed it up and called a plumber.

The guy who fixed it was a pure genious andf fitted a superior honeywell valve in 45 minutes flat.

I conclude, be wary of cheap boiler installations where cheaper parts are used, I think the real reason why my gas engineer did not want to fix it was he knew I would be giving him grief for fiitting inferior parts so he pretended I had offended him, in fact it's me who was insulted.

On inspection of the faulty valve the shaft that connects to the valve parts is far too thin to take the load, when the system calcifies the metal breaks clean off,and the sychronous motor burns out in the effort to free it, so it's all down to price and quality of components and materials used.

Anyone who wants to purchase a cheap Tower actuator head please contact me, it cost 35 sobs I will sell for a song just to recoup some money back.

The 160 sobs to fix it was money well spent the valve cost 90 anyway and I also learned that my pump is pretty naff too.
 
It's unwise to pay too much, but it's unwise to pay too little. When you pay too much you lose a little money, that's all.

When you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything, because the thing you bought was incapable of doing the thing you bought it to do.

The common law of business balance prohibits a little and getting a lot. It can't be done. If you deal with the lowest bidder, it's well to add something for the risk you run.

And if you do that, you'll have enough to pay for something better. John Ruskin 1819 - 1900.
 
So you are running a dirty gunked up system and then blame inferior parts when it goes titts up? :roll:
 
Tyhe stiff valve would not cause the motor to 'burn out'. In all2 or 3 port spring return valves, When they are open, the motor runs to stall to hold the valve open. Some valves are cheap and do not last as long mainly due to seals which allow the primary water to seize up the valve. You get what you pay for, and if you want to tell the professional what to do, from those who are not too professional, expect the response you get. As a seasoned professional, I reckon I can sus out the know alls and am prepared to forego the job and the aggro that goes with it.
 

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Back
Top