30 HXI F1 fault

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Hi I'm looking for some help, my boiler fails to fire up with an F1 Fault, however there is a spark at the electrode on each of the three cycles, the gas lights for about 2-3 seconds. then cuts out. There is 24 volts at the gas valve during this time then nothing so the valve is obviously turning off. is this really a pcb fault? is there something triggering this? anyideas welcome :?: :?:
 
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Thanks for the ideas Dan Its not the condensate trap. I've had that before!! The Gas valve I'm assuming works ok but when the 24 volts goes from the PCB It switches off. and the fan powers up ok, Any other thoughts. :?: :?:
 
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Serviced about 3 months ago. I also fitted a new electrode. the electrode can only be fitted it one position i think. Theres a healthy spark for about 10secs and the gas lights but the 24v supply to the gas valve stops after a few seconds on each cycle??
 
If the flame is not rectifying the gas valve have its power cut.

I think this is a flame detection problem. If the electrode is new, clean and not deformed then I suppose it could be a PCB fault. However, before jumping the gun have you checked the earth lead is intack, polarity is correct and did the service engineer check the flue gas make up and gas pressures?
 
Thanks Dan, looks like i'm going to have to get a Gloworm expert out!! The earth leads ok. which polarity? I don't have the equipment to check gas pressures, but the Hob in the kitchen's working ok if thats a clue. I did have similar symptoms about 3 months ago but with a F13 fault. A new board fixed it. but £160 every 3 months isa bit much.
 
miniman said:
Thanks Dan, looks like i'm going to have to get a Gloworm expert out!! The earth leads ok. which polarity? I don't have the equipment to check gas pressures, but the Hob in the kitchen's working ok if thats a clue. I did have similar symptoms about 3 months ago but with a F13 fault. A new board fixed it. but £160 every 3 months isa bit much.

If it is the pcb it will still be under warranty won't it?
 
Thats why Glow Worms are cheap in the first place :LOL:

Certainly would go for lack of rectification. These are the old ecomax pro rebadged but with a lot less diagnostics fitted.
 
Unfortunately having a PCB changed on a relatively new boiler is not encouraging and can even draw an engineer back to that as a cause of further problems.

Even more confirmation of Gloworm's permanent position on my "Never to install unless todger is being threatened with blunt rusty knife" list along with Potterton, Sauny and Ariston.

Polarity is the live and neutrals bieng the correct way round. It can play havoc with the flame detection on modern boilers, some are permently in spark mode (worcester are common for this) others just throw there hands up and sit there protesting (Atmos Multi does this but has the decency to give you a specific fault code - which is not known to everyone ;)). Other boilers will just get confused and do their best - which is actually less helpful than you might think.
 
F1 fault would/could mean ignition lead or igniter defective,gas valve needs adjusting,lack of gas,air intake duct blockage or check connections on igniter.
 
Faulty gas valves are a common fault on these boilers according to a friend of mine who changes them day in day out through doing work for a council who fitted hundred's of them!

HTH Sam
 
What detects if the valve is operating correctly and sends the signal back to the PCBboard to cut of the supply to the gas valve. Isthere something I can open or close circuit to carry out some tests????

Dan regards polarity. I understand polarity but not sure how it canbecome changed and to what component are you referring??


Thanks all for your comments and ideas just needto find thge solution now. The igniton side seems to work as theresa good healthy spark in the start up cycle that lightsthe gas. It just goesout after a a few seconds.

What should my next boiler be??? Worcester/Bosch????
 
The boiler detects the flame through the spark electrode. Different boilers do it in slightly different ways. If it is doing so through the electrode itself then there could be a problem with the PCB - assuming my previous questions are answered suitably (clean, not deformed and located correctly). Tolerances can be quite slim.

Sam, the gas valve is apparently being shutdown by the controls... Well power its being cut to it at ay rate.

Miniman, I was referring to the mains feed to the boiler - check the polarity to that. It can change for several reasons.
 

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