Adding to a full Consumer unit

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having said that.... I still have my original problem don't I which is the I will need 2 sets of tails out of the isolator switch, one to go to the existing CU and the other to go to the shower CU that I need to fit? I'm not sure I can get 2 sets of 25mm tails into a single insolator switch can I? :?:
 
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Are you gong to fit an isolator to the main tails BEFORE the henley block?

In which case your tails from the meter go to the incoming terms of the isolator, and another pair go out to the henley block, THEN you can split both ways to each CU.

Breezer, I contacted the mods but nowt was done.
 
OK thanks for that - does that mean that provided I've got spare terminals on a Henley block I can split from there to the 2 CUs? I thought that was the case but I wasn't sure whether or not when I've got a 10.8KW electric shower and an immersion heater and an electric cooker all on the go there would be a risk of an overload somwhere?
Cheers
:?:
 
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Hi all,

Asked REC to change redundant economy 7 meter and timeswitch for standard meter. Also, bought an isolator and asked them to fit this next to the new meter. Thought it wouldn't be a problem as it's such a simple quick job.

However, wouldn't do it; said that would have to be booked in as a separate job - were basically miserable sods who wanted to get away ASAP.

Instead they left the existing Henley block between the CU and meter and suggested I just wire straight into that!!! Being confused and wanting some clarity I asked "even though the service fuse won't have been pulled and the tails are live?". Told me should be fine as long as I'm careful.

Now I'm guessing this bloke's a tw*t. Right?

All I wanted was to be able to LEGALLY isolate the CU so that it could be replaced by a modern one with MCBs and and RCD, etc. But, having yet encountered more cr*p tradesmen I'm inclined to just pull the service fuse myself and do the job. Or do I risk finding a sparky, who might just be as crap as every other 'Bodgit and Scarper' I've met to date?

...and people wonder why some of us want to DIY!

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richbraithwaite, please read forum rules 17 & 20 (as Adam_151 said)
 
I would suggest you don't reply to posts 2 years old ;)

Yeah, the rec can be jobsworths, but most of the time if you are polite to the guys that turn up, you can get favours done, there are always exceptions though

Instead they left the existing Henley block between the CU and meter and suggested I just wire straight into that!!! Being confused and wanting some clarity I asked "even though the service fuse won't have been pulled and the tails are live?". Told me should be fine as long as I'm careful.

It was unprofessional of him to tell you as such, he has got no idea of whether you are capable of the task or not, and if you injured yourself doing it, it'd be at least partly his fault (professional advice and all that)

Saying that, I'd personally be happy enough, given some VDE 1000v tested screwdrivers to stick a tail into a live henly, its the other way around thats a bit more scarey... live, loose tail, but I must advise you *not* to do this, I know what I'm happy doing, you know what your happy doing, its when people start doing things they arn't happy doing that accidents start to occur

It should be also noted that pulling the service fuse can also be dangerous for someone who doesn't really know what they are doing, etc, etc
 
richbraithwaite said:
Instead they left the existing Henley block between the CU and meter and suggested I just wire straight into that!!! Being confused and wanting some clarity I asked "even though the service fuse won't have been pulled and the tails are live?". Told me should be fine as long as I'm careful.

Now I'm guessing this bloke's a tw*t. Right?

It would appear so. Don't even think about it! Very bad idea.
 
Out of interest, you say your original CU is full. What is the rating on the main switch of the CU, does it have a built in RCD and how old approx is it and are your current tails 16mm or 25mm.

It MAY be possible to offload a circuit (eg doorbell transformer) , onto another circuit (eg lighting) to free up a space on the cu , then put a mcb for the shower onto the cu, but obviously you need to make sure the main switch and tails can handle it (must be 25mm or greater), and main switch 100A , and RCD protection for the shower circuit is highly recomended, although its non statutory (You'd be silly not to have it RCD protected).

As regards to overloading, you MAY only have a house service fuse of 60A , and tails of 16mm, in that case, you need to contact the REC to upgrade the fuse and tails for you, as there is every chance of blowing the 60A fuse with that shower fitted. Ask them for an 80 or a 100Amp supply.

Best to check that first, because a 10.8kW shower will seriously load up your installation, whether you choose the seperate CU option or not.

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Post locked to stop more hi -jacking, not possible to "split" due to subject starting point
 

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