Adhesive?

[ivormills]

I am about to clad and insulate the internal breezeblock walls of my garage. I need to minimise weight of materials and heavy work for health reasons.

I have planned a way that would suit me, namely battening the walls with 25x38mm, insulating with 25mm polystyrene and finising with 3mm mdf.

A couple of questions, is the above method satisfactory? To avoid a lot of drilling and rawplugging, could I fit the battens to the wall and the mdf to the battens with one of the modern 'no nails' adhesives? and finally if I emulsion the mdf afterwards, would I have any problem with warping?

Many thanks.

 

[gregers]

would I have any problem with warping?


with 3 mm mdf i would think so

 

[neds]

If you cant do it properly then I would suggest not straining your self and risk further injury to yourself and get someone else to do a job which you are satisfied with. I personally wouldn't use any grab adhesive to put battening up. Why are you using 3mm mdf too? 3mm ply will be like paper and it will look naff once its on the walls, will be wavy/bumpy across the whole wall.

 

[ivormills]

Thanks for your replies, obviously 3mm mdf is a no-no!

As far as the battens are concerned could I use adhesive for positioning, drill through the batten into the wall and fix with 50mm plugs hammered through the batten?

As far as the finish is concerned it looks like it must be plasterboard, which I was trying to avoid because of the weight. I only see 9.5mm thick or more, is there a thinner one, say 6mm in smallish sheets and if so where could I get this?

One other thing is putting in a false insulated ceiling, are there any lightweight sheets that could be recommended for this.

Thanks

 

[neds]

As far as the battens are concerned could I use adhesive for positioning, drill through the batten into the wall and fix with 50mm plugs hammered through the batten?

This is what I do, without any adhesive. Just drill straight through the batten and wall and hammer a brown plug all the way in with the tip of the long screw. Then drive in the remaining part of the screw with a screwdriver.

As far as the finish is concerned it looks like it must be plasterboard, which I was trying to avoid because of the weight. I only see 9.5mm thick or more, is there a thinner one, say 6mm in smallish sheets and if so where could I get this?

I've not seen 6mm plasterboard about, anything thinner than 9.5mm is risking snapping etc... there has to be some limit for palsterboard I'd imagine.

One other thing is putting in a false insulated ceiling, are there any lightweight sheets that could be recommended for this.

How about polystyrene ceiling tiles? however this will need more work doing with the metal structure which will need raising to hold the tiles.

 

[Deluks]

I agree with the battens/plasterboard idea. If battens are vertical, once the first screw is in you'll be ok, you could use a bit of gaffa tape to hold the batten til you get the first one in.

Can't you borrow a spare pair of hands, a mate or neighbour?

When ordering plasterboard, ask for baseboard, that's about as small as it comes. 1220x900mm

 

[ivormills]

Great answers, thanks, I think I am almost there!

Only one thing regarding the ceiling which I probably did not make clear. I am ok with the poly tiles as a finish, but as it is an old garage, the roof is corrugated panels which look ugly from inside. I need to put up a false ceiling first. Is there a lightweight panel solution for this that I could insulate from behind with loft insulation or similar?

Thanks.

** Sorry I did not read your post fully, I see you are refering to a suspended ceiling, which may well be the route to go if nothing else is practical.

 

[Deluks]

Great answers, thanks, I think I am almost there!

Only one thing regarding the ceiling which I probably did not make clear. I am ok with the poly tiles as a finish, but as it is an old garage, the roof is corrugated panels which look ugly from inside. I need to put up a false ceiling first. Is there a lightweight panel solution for this that I could insulate from behind with loft insulation or similar?

Thanks.

** Sorry I did not read your post fully, I see you are refering to a suspended ceiling, which may well be the route to go if nothing else is practical.

Large sheets of polystrene can be had from the diy stores, and can be stuck up with a solvent free adhesive.
~
Personally, I'd stick with the battens, PB idea, and a mate to help. I don't know what else to suggest, 6mm ply? Perspex? > (will be pricey)

Using foil backed plasterboard would be sensible if you are going to use standard loft insulation.

 

[Symptoms]

ivor - what's currently supporting your corrugated ceiling - timber joist perhaps? Knauf do a suspended galvanised metal ceiling system, a collection of U & C channels and hangers which you could fix to your walls and joists; this could support light-weight panels. There's also an anodised aluminium version of this (available from Selco) which also has 600mm x 600mm ceiling tiles - all very light-weight. Extra insulation could be shoved above.

Walls - consider insulating wallboard (polystyrene bonded to plasterboard).

Any walls external? Vapour barrier issues maybe.

 

[ivormills]

Many thanks for your very helpful replies, I will check them out now.

 

[Beeches]

RE: POLYSTYRENE. Avoid in a ceiling at all costs. Fire rating zilch. Many past accidents with polystyrene tiles.

 

[Symptoms]

The light-weight panels mentioned in my earlier post are fire-resistant fibreboard.