Hi,
I'd be really grateful if anyone and everyone would have a good read through, and let me know whether they'd attempt another fix, or replace the current Vokera. Having read responses to what new boiler, I've noticed many think the old boiler are worth repairing. (Boiler details at bottom)
I have a Vokera Excell 80SP. It was in the house when I bought it. In the past two years the venturi's have been blocked, the fan needed replacing, the pilot light spark has stopped working and now the latest fault....
The heating is working fine, but the hot water was not firing. This has gotten gradually worse, to a point where only the tap nearest the boiler would fire the hot water. (please read all, to see how the problem changes)
I called round one heating engineer, Gas Safe Registered, to have a look.
He looked at the boiler for a good 1-2 hours. But didn't really touch anything. Turned it off and on a couple of times. Said it was either a blocked heat exchanger or the diverter valve - the latter which apparently they no longer make. He didn't want to touch the heat exchanger as it was clear that there were leaks and he was concerned that any rust formed might cause the connections to break, resulting in needing a new heat exchanger. He did say that it could just be the start of the problems with the boiler.
You guys seemed to disagree.
See here: //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1773502#1773502
So I called out someone else, another Gas Safe Registered person. He drained the boiler. Had a fiddle - with what i'm not sure - but he got straight to work. He showed me that it wasn't the diverter valve as the pin was moving, which apparently wouldn't happen. he also noticed small leaks, that he said were due to seals leaking, then drying out and leaking again? He said he thought it could be the PCB. He said he knew someone who can diagnose them/fix PCB's but it was upt to me whether i should put money in the direction of an old boiler. He also recommended a new boiler, as he said replacing the PCB is likely to uncover other faults. On re-filling/starting the system there were quite a few noises that he said was air in the system from him draining and the Auto- air valve(?) not functioning (this noise has since stopped). Unlike the other chap, he mentioned - magna clean, lime fighter, power flush, and condensate pumps. He said it was up to me what boiler I went for.
Strangely since he left the heating is no longer working (which was working before), but the hot water now works(!) but ONLY when the heating is on and has got the boiler up to temperature.
I'm quite confused as to whether I outlay a lot of cash on the new system, or if the old boiler can be fixed.
I'd really appreciate if you'd give your opinion on what you would do.
Vokera Details (click for bigger image):
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Cheers,
Ross
I'd be really grateful if anyone and everyone would have a good read through, and let me know whether they'd attempt another fix, or replace the current Vokera. Having read responses to what new boiler, I've noticed many think the old boiler are worth repairing. (Boiler details at bottom)
I have a Vokera Excell 80SP. It was in the house when I bought it. In the past two years the venturi's have been blocked, the fan needed replacing, the pilot light spark has stopped working and now the latest fault....
The heating is working fine, but the hot water was not firing. This has gotten gradually worse, to a point where only the tap nearest the boiler would fire the hot water. (please read all, to see how the problem changes)
I called round one heating engineer, Gas Safe Registered, to have a look.
He looked at the boiler for a good 1-2 hours. But didn't really touch anything. Turned it off and on a couple of times. Said it was either a blocked heat exchanger or the diverter valve - the latter which apparently they no longer make. He didn't want to touch the heat exchanger as it was clear that there were leaks and he was concerned that any rust formed might cause the connections to break, resulting in needing a new heat exchanger. He did say that it could just be the start of the problems with the boiler.
You guys seemed to disagree.
See here: //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1773502#1773502
So I called out someone else, another Gas Safe Registered person. He drained the boiler. Had a fiddle - with what i'm not sure - but he got straight to work. He showed me that it wasn't the diverter valve as the pin was moving, which apparently wouldn't happen. he also noticed small leaks, that he said were due to seals leaking, then drying out and leaking again? He said he thought it could be the PCB. He said he knew someone who can diagnose them/fix PCB's but it was upt to me whether i should put money in the direction of an old boiler. He also recommended a new boiler, as he said replacing the PCB is likely to uncover other faults. On re-filling/starting the system there were quite a few noises that he said was air in the system from him draining and the Auto- air valve(?) not functioning (this noise has since stopped). Unlike the other chap, he mentioned - magna clean, lime fighter, power flush, and condensate pumps. He said it was up to me what boiler I went for.
Strangely since he left the heating is no longer working (which was working before), but the hot water now works(!) but ONLY when the heating is on and has got the boiler up to temperature.
I'm quite confused as to whether I outlay a lot of cash on the new system, or if the old boiler can be fixed.
I'd really appreciate if you'd give your opinion on what you would do.
Vokera Details (click for bigger image):
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Cheers,
Ross
