Advice needed on drilling precisely lined up holes

I keep old small diameter non-masonry twist drills when they are no longer any use for their intended purpose to make enough of a pilot hole in brick to stop the masonry bit on a hammer setting from wandering at the start.
 
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4 fixings into brick for a doorbell sounds a bit excessive, how big is it?..
 
4 fixings into brick for a doorbell sounds a bit excessive, how big is it?..

Depending on the model, they are about the size of a packet of 20 superking fags.

Amazon will provide a replacement if it is stolen

https://support.ring.com/hc/en-gb/articles/115003475783-What-to-do-if-Your-Ring-Device-is-Stolen

I guess they want owners to use 4 fixings to reduce the risk of someone stealing them.

Additionally, the four fittings help to ensure that the back plate is level. I had to temporarily remove a first generation Ring two days ago. If the back plate isn't level (read: flat) it is a pig to push the front plate on. The underside has two small torx screws that won't line up if the base plate isn't flat.

That said, yesterday, I had to remove a Google doorbell that the customer's electrician couldn't correctly wire to his Honeywell chime. The doorbell plate is about the size of a packet of 10 cigarettes, it only has two screws but is metal. To remove the actual bell push you need to use those pins that you use to eject SIM cards.. oh, and you need to eff and blind whilst trying to do it.
 
It's too late for my Ring device but any help or technique I can use when faced with a similar task in future?

Fit it one a neat bit of wood. Fix wood to wall, Ring to the wood. Drilling holes in walls, bits will always move sideways because the density in the brick will vary.
 
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And we are back to the wooden pattress, again...

Nowt wrong with using a pattress, some things just look odd without them to my eyes. When I fitted wall lights in the living room here, three decades ago, I tried in vain to find some to buy. In the end I turned some wood and varnished it. One problem is that small neat screws, are just not long enough to go through the fitting, the plaster and a reasonable depth into the wall. With pattress fixed to wall, you can then fix the item to the wood of the pattress with small neater screws.
 
Additionally, the four fittings help to ensure that the back plate is level.
Ironically, of course, it is 3 fixings which will more likely ensure that, not 4. 3 fixings will allow the back plate to be firmly fixed without distortion to the wall (barring any gross unevenness in the wall).

Same principle as why 3-legged stools dont rock.
 
It'd be two in the middle and some adhesive round the perimeter for me I think.
 
Ironically, of course, it is 3 fixings which will more likely ensure that, not 4. 3 fixings will allow the back plate to be firmly fixed without distortion to the wall (barring any gross unevenness in the wall).

Same principle as why 3-legged stools dont rock.

Fair call, but if the bricks are out of level, you can pack out the 4th screw.
 
This happens from time to time to me too.

If the 3 screws look odd then cut most of the thread from a like screw and stick it in place - looks legit! :)
 

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